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I am what many would call a raving fan of the flying scot, but, given your questions you may want to look at other boats.Adding a keel to a Scot is not feasible. Not designed for that.Single handing a Scot works well up to about 8 knots. In the ocean, you will have a hard time predicting the under 8 days. Also capsizing a Scot in the ocean probably means you will swamp the boat.You may want to consider a small keelboat that is self bailing and can be self rescued. In our area we have impulse 21, which are mostly singlehanded.You may want to ask locals in your area. This may allow you to find a boat that has a local one design fleet. This gives you a ready made network that is familiar with local conditions.
I would varnish after assembling, but before installing. I think at the factory the top inch or two on the outside is left unvarnished until after the fiberglass that holds it into the deck is done. You almost can’t see that part, and the bare wood probably holds resin better.If you will be making your own, I would think you would want to glue it and use stainless screws. I think the older boats had brass. The bolts at the bottom should be stainless.What does good mahogany sell for in your market? I think Harry sells the stanchion for about $150 ready to go. I bought one and spent my waxing and varnishing time on the tiller and the bottom.Keep in mind that if you build your own, you will want to support the deck, while you have old one out of the boat, and be very careful to get the right distance from deck to keel. If you end up too long or short, it will affect rig tension, shrouds etc.Phil
I have not sailed a Highlander, but I have heard good things. Do you want to race? If so, look into which boats have competItive fleets nearby. On our Lake it’s a no-brainer, the Scot and Thistle fleets are the biggest. Lots of good competition, and advice, and a ready resale market for these boats.If you routinely sale with one crew, the Scot tends to be easier for this. Competitive Highlanders, Thistles and lightnings, are often three-up.Age, fitness and comfort level also matter. The Scot is the easiest to sail until you are truly ancient. The Thistle requires a little more athletic style, and is physically more demanding.On the lightning or highlander, if they are the strongest fleet where you sail, they would be worthy of consideration. For the Highlander it seems the Ohio area is the main concentration of fleets.One other aspect of the Scot is that it is really easy to find a competitive boat. All the boats are fiberglass, and most are Douglass or FS Inc built. As such the difference between boat ages, builder, and condition is somewhat narrower.Where are you located?
I don’t think you could add a block between your waco and the drum. There is too much line to absorb for the distance between. I find that when I need to crank on the line to raise the board, I have recently turned downwind,and the wind is blowing medium to strong. If it is really light air, there is no big rush to get the board up. If it is blowing then I put the tiller between my legs to hold it steady, as I stand at the back of the cockpit. You can brace against the rear edge of the coaming, which steadies your stance. This is nice if you get hit by a puff and the boat squirts forward a little.If it is windy enough to urgently need to raise the board, then standing that far back in the bus is no problem. If it is honking, you want the people back anyway to keep the bow from sticking or digging in. Putting the board down is a one-handed deal.Have fun, sail in breeze, and you will get it.
I may have what you need. Mine has the U shaped bracket on the boat and the detachable mount to which the motor attaches. I have removed mine. Reply with email and I can send a picture.Phil
I had mine replaced at the factory. It was quite reasonable. I think the complete stanchion is under 200 dollars on the FS Inc website. Mine was weathered and would have needed a lot of sanding and coat after coat of new varnish. Since Harry had my boat, I think the replacement of the stanchion was only about an extra hour or labor. They did mine with the boat upside down. It makes it easier to fiberglass in the top, where it meets the deck. The bottom is bolted through the CB trunk keel that extends forward.The new one looks really pretty, and at the price, buying mahogany, I am not sure I could had built it for less myself. If you factor in the time, it’s easy to justify a new one. The old one is still hanging around my garage. I could sell it for $50 + shipping.
You may want to check if there is a local fleet that might know of a used boom in better shape than yours. Also, if FSInc is in your area to deliver a new boat, a mast or boom can come along at a reasonable charge.Where are you located?The Sandy Douglass regatta is next weekend. It is near the factory. Maybe there are boats from your area going? They may be able to pick up a boom, if you prepay and arrange it. Call Harry.
Attach the jib halyard to the jib tack tack shackle, and snug up the jib halyard with the winch. This will keep it from slopping around.
Check for wear and tear regularly.
If the halyard breaks, the forestay would keep the mast up. If the forestay breaks, the halyard would keep the mast up. The catch is that the tension would be lower and if the boat bobs around on the mooring, then it can work to wear through things.
The link above is good. The Tuning Guide from your sailmaker will give you some good tips on how to fine tune the boat. I find that reading all of them, from North, Mad, Dieball, Shurr, etc will give you a lot of good info.
Do you have a Scot fleet in your area? In our fleet, we have Rig Check Days in the spring to work out the cobwebs on rigging the boat that inevitably form over the winter.
If not and you plan to race, then trailering to a race and arriving plenty early is also a good venue to get rigging advice. Going to a two-day regatta someplace, even if you plan to be in last place is a great way to learn and most top racers are more than generous with advice. If you plan to be last or don’t race every race, you may be pleasantly surprised if you end up second or third to last.
If you have specific questions after looking at the Flying Scot Inc info on rigging, you can post questions on this forum. Many members are pretty good with answering questions.
Phil
You may want to contact fleets in Massachusetts. I think Mossapoag has a club boat or two. Look at the new England District Fleets for info.
They may also know of boats that are for sale in your area.
Phil
The Scot should be resting primarily on large rollers under the centerline of the boat. The centerboard case is well reinforced and should bear all the weight. The bunks are there to keep the boat from rocking side to side and bear very little weight unless your are cornering hard.
Thus the bunks can be carpeted or rollers, it doesn’t matter much. The trailer bunks and guide rollers should be arranged to guide the boat onto the trailer. You want to be sure the center keel is on the center rollers.
You need about five strong guys. At the factory, they rolled the boat with a large tire (w/o rim) located so that the chainplate is in the center of the tire as the boat goes over. From there they place a very sturdy support under the bow eye, and two under each corner of the transom. These were well padded and roughly followed the deck contour. There was also a pad over the tire to prevent black marks on the boat.
I think the boat is around 675 lbs without the board.
Be careful not to bend the chainplates over.
If the boat is in decent shape and not painted, but the gelcoat is chalky, think hard before you assume that paint is the right call.
You may be very surprised that the gelcoat will wetsand and buff up to a much better finish than you might think.
It may take some elbow grease, but paint tends to show scratches and chips more easily.
The link below is the boat when I found it.
http://www.nockamixonsailclub.org/content/i-found-flying-scot-2005
This is the current look. My boat was built in 1985.
http://www.fssa.com/index.php?q=gallery&g2_itemId=4065
Phil
