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Viewing 9 posts - 211 through 219 (of 219 total)
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  • in reply to: 360 degree swivel cleat #12706
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    My boat came family rigged, and had the clamcleat for the centerboard. I installed one of the waco 360 cleats for the centerboard and mounted a Ronstan T Cleat (RF5, I think), on the CB case top cap near the boat number, for the vang.

    This allows the skipper or crew to adjust the CB, and allows the skipper or crew to easily adjust the vang while sitting out on the rail. It definitely helps to make the boat more controllable and slippery through the wind when you are a little overpowered.

    I had seen it in an article about Kelly Gough’s boat setup. I like the way it works.

    Phil Scheetz
    FS 4086

    in reply to: Capsize #12696
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    It seems that most of the capsize stories I hear are in really rowdy conditions, and often involve very gusty days and sailors who are new to racing and spinnaker handling. I have not capsized, but it seems that there are some common threads:

    1) Spinnaker up, big gust from astern, and the skipper steers upwind some, when turning off the wind may have been more appropriate. This seems to be accompanied by skipper and crew sitting too far forward.

    2) Spinnaker up, newbie crew is slow to get spinnaker down at leeward mark, skipper rounds anyway and turns to weather, and maybe forgets to lower the centerboard in the excitement…oops. It is OK for the crew to cry in this situation. What good is a sport where you can’t cry occasionally?

    3) Sailing to weather, with main and jib cleated, or with 95 pound Golden Retriever sitting on mainsheet, giant gust (Northwesterly at Nockamixon) boat almost capsizes, I uncleat jib and get dog off mainsheet, boat does the weeble thing and pops back up. Nice!

    At Nockamixon, a majority of the boats have the flotation for the head of the sail and that seems to prevent the boat from turtling, making righting simpler.

    When I first started racing, I was at a race where we got a chance to talk to longtime Scot sailors, at Monmouth Boat Club in NJ, and many said they had sailed Scots for years without capsize.

    Have fun. Time in the boat is the key to uprightness.

    Phil Scheetz
    FS 4086

    in reply to: Capsize #12691
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    So, Scot veterans, how does one right the boat, if the board is up and the mast is pointing down? What is the trick, short of having another boat around to hold up the mast?

    Phil Scheetz
    FS 4086

    in reply to: Capsize #12689
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    I’ve often wondered if there is a trick to get the centerboard down, if you capsize with the CB up. Can you uncleat it and reach up through the gasket and pull it down, or can just push it down from up at the rollers?

    I have had the boat on it’s side on land, and it was hard to move, but it was dry at the time.

    Any hints?

    Phil Scheetz
    FS 4086

    in reply to: looking for sails #12686
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    I have a Schurr Main and Jib that I no longer use. They have #4086 on them, so you would only need two numbers on each side.

    They are loose rig, and in decent shape. They would be fine for daysailing, but if your want to race seriously, they are probably not for you.

    I replaced them with new North Sails this year.

    Phil Scheetz
    FS 4086

    in reply to: changing out chain plates #12668
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    Harry Carpenter and his crew at Flying Scot Inc, would be the ticket. They sell the parts and have the expertise. I have heard that it’s not easy.

    Phil Scheetz
    FS 4086

    in reply to: changing out chain plates #12666
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    The chainplates normally look bent inward. When you attach the stays the chainplates are usually in line with the stays.

    I would call Flying Scot, if you have a question. I am sure Harry would be glad to offer answers. If you actually need new chainplates, it probably makes sense to buy them from Harry, as he sends directions and has installed thousands.

    Phil Scheetz
    FS 4086

    in reply to: FLOTATION #12664
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    Take a look at the bow flotation bag that Flying Scot Inc sells. It will give you an idea of size and placement. You may have a hard time adequately supporting a foam block of this size, as it will generate significant bouyancy.

    It is my impression that the bag from FS mounts to the keelson, forward of the stanchon, placing it low in the boat, which makes the boat float higher when righted with water onboard.

    It may be easier to use the bag kit from FS. Another benefit is that the bag is easy to work around, if you need to get to the toggle. A solid foam block would be hard to get in or out.

    Phil Scheetz
    FS 4086

    in reply to: FLOTATION #12660
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    My Scot has EPS foam under the side decks. EPS stands for expanded polystyrene. This is the white foam that is made up of many small beads. When you think of your typical white “styrofoam” cup, that is EPS foam.

    Technically, Styrofoam is a brand name of another type of foam.

    EPS foam is dissolved by contact with polyester resin, but is unaffected by epoxy resin, so be careful about what resin you use for any repairs.

    EPS comes in a variety of “weights” which refers to the bead size and density. What weight FS uses is a Harry Carpenter question.

    My Scot is a Douglas, built in 1985.

    Phil Scheetz
    FS 4086

Viewing 9 posts - 211 through 219 (of 219 total)
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