[sawyerspadre]

At many clubs, the boats rarely get connected to cars as they are hoist-launched and wheeled around by hand on level ground.

You can also have your crew stand on the trailer tongue to prevent the boat from tipping back as you raise the mast.

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

[sawyerspadre]

The cleat can be used for basically nothing, and you are right, it can catch a flapping jib sheet.

The metal slug that it screws into, serves to keep the pin for the mast hinge from sliding up the track as you raise the mast. The slug must be in place to use the mast hinge.

I took off the cleat and put the slug back in, bottoming the screw in the sail track, so the slug can’t slide. You will notice that when the mast is up, the bottom of the slug sits nearly in contact with the top of the pin on the mast hinge.

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

[sawyerspadre]

I use the transom rings. They are very strong. Cleats on the deck would be a great place to catch the mainsheet.

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

[sawyerspadre]

A 4″ round hole in the transom, which can be opened to let water out of a swamped Scot, by towing the boat with a special bridle.

On the FSSA home page it will explain the new rules for transom port and bow flotation that go into effect in early 2009 for sanctioned events.

The spirit is to make it easier to empty a boat that has been swamped after a capsize.

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

[sawyerspadre]

If you buy the transom port from Harry at Flying Scot, it comes with directions and screws.

If you already have one Dee or Harry would probably fax you directions.

The center of the hole is 6.5″ to the left of the center of the transom and 4.25″ above the top of the waterline stripe. The groove makes it easy to measure this.

You use a 4.5″ hole saw, and the holes for the screws are 7/64″ I had to sand the hole to get it nice and smooth, and to enlarge it sightly. Use a good sealant, or resin to seal the glass edges. In this spot you should not hit any wood.

I did mine, and just did another for a fleet member. It’s easy.

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

[sawyerspadre]

It sounds like you have the information you need, if you have a template from Harry.

I have never heard of more than one board.

Phil

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

[sawyerspadre]

Thanks, the photos shown are great.

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

[sawyerspadre]

Chet:

I thought of a couple of factors that seem to have made it easier to recover:

1 Flat water, and moderate winds, probably around 15, with gusts higher. Waves would have made it more likely to swamp.

2 I had the centerboard down slightly and I was able to release the waco cleat and get the board down to lever the boat up.

3 I asked my crew to swim to the mast tip and see if he could keep it from sinking. He had a nice swim, but the mast tip was on its way back up before he got there. My sail had gone under, to about the numbers, which puts the mast tip about 4 or 5 feet under the surface, I would guess. As soon as I was on the board, the mast started surfacing as the boat started righting.

4 I highly recommend the swim ladder. The bow flotation bag and the transom port are required for racing soon and just a good idea. The mast flotation is used by many in our club, and doesn’t seem to slow anybody down. I don’t use one, but I don’t really worry about capsizing all that much. I am a pretty strong swimmer and if it looks dicey, I tend to wear a PFD.

Have fun, be careful, and shoot video. It could be some very interesting Youtube content, that could be very useful to others learning this valuable skill.

Phil

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

[sawyerspadre]

Hey Chet,

Phil Scheetz here from NSC. I capsized last fall at Nockamixon, something I knew was coming someday. We were leading the race at the first mark and the wind was somewhat gusty and shifting about 45 degrees. We got cocky and decided to fly the spinnaker to extend our lead, when we knew that we might be a little high or close to the wind to fly my old spinnaker. The wind went left in a puff and we went for a swim.

The mast starts sinking pretty quickly, which may be a good reason to have the masthead float, and is also a good reason to get on the centerboard quickly.

I was very surprised by how quickly the boat came back up. I fell in the water initially. My crew and I were already wearing lifejackets, which is helpful. I swam between the boom and cockpit and stepped on the seat then the mast and over the high side to stand on the centerboard.

The boat comes up fast. I have the swim ladder, which saves a lot of grief.

Retrieve the crew, and wet spinnaker, and away you go. We had about 3 scoops to bail, mostly brought on board by wet crew and spinnaker.

I have used a line of the mast, secured at the hounds, to roll my boat over on shore. I would think that rolling it in the water would be less stressful on the rig. Just be sure you are in deep enough water to prevent the centerboard from hitting bottom as the boat comes up. This seems like it would stress the boat in a bad way.

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

[sawyerspadre]

Is Han’s cover orange? It would be no surprise to those who know Hans, that the cover is orange, and that he has developed a highly efficient method of donning the cover.[8D]

Good info, I always wondered how to do this without the benefit of a group of burley Scot sailors to lift the boat.

What type of ladder do you use? The boat weighs 850, right, so it seems that 400 lbs, or more is on the ladder. Also, how high, and is this with the TeeNee or Long galvanized trailers or the Trailex deluxe ride? They seem to hold the boat at different heights.

Sounds like a good time to keep the kids out from under the boat.

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

[sawyerspadre]

FSSA Handbook
ARTICLE S-V – RACING RESTRICTIONS

3. No temporary coating of grease, graphite, pot lead, etc. is
allowed on the hull, center-board or rudder. Waxing of the hull,
centerboard and deck may be done at the option of the owner.
(See also CMR’s #28 & 72)

CMR #28. Any bottom coating which is represented by the manufacturer
as designed to last one season is not a “temporary coating” and
therefore not prohibited under the provision of S-V-3.

CMR #72. The use of any liquid soap, detergent, soap or any such
wetting agent applied to coat the hull , centerboard or rudder is
prohibited under the provisions of S-V-3. Any such material may
be applied to clean the hull, but must be removed (squeaky
clean) prior to launching the boat. (March 1994)

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

[sawyerspadre]

Does Starbrite teflon last “less than one year”?

Could be debated.

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

[sawyerspadre]

Champ Fleet:

1 Allan Terhune Jr
2 Dan Neff
3 Ralph Coffil
4 Harry Carpenter
5 David Neff
6 Hans Noordanus
7 John Luard
8 Mark Beaton
9 Hugh Haggarty
10 Dan Vought
11 Bill Warner
12 Robby Brown
13 Mike Miller
14 John Brown
15 Joe Thorpe
16 Thom Lee
17 David Watts
18 Lee Guenther
19 Ed Summerfield
20 Keith Hennessey
21 Steve Berglund
22 Charles Buffington
23 William Cosulich
24 Dr Tom Hohler
25 Rich Kerdock
26 Glenn Shaffer
27 Paul Cocotus

Challenger
1 Douglas Mines
2 Phil Scheetz

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

[sawyerspadre]

At $700, it seems like an expensive adder. You might see a new round of development on new jibs for furlers and between better furling jibs and the chance to reduce the interference of the jib on the spinnaker, there may be conditions where it is an advantage.

Wouldn’t it be fun to ruminate endlessly before a race on whether the furler is an advantage and put it on or take it off? Would I then need a furling jib, and a regular jib?

I think the reason the jib stays up on 99% of spin runs is that the scot winches make it a hassle to drop.

Let’s keep it pure and keep furlers out of the racing.

Just my $.02.

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

[sawyerspadre]

Early Scots have nuts under the deck on the blocks. Later, they had self tapping screws. I think Dee at the factory told me that the method changed around boat 4000.

If you check with Harry or Dee, or the crew at the factory, they can tell you how to remove them.

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

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