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I find that I don’t have that problem, if I pull the topping lift up, to the point where the hook is at the right spot, for the pole to be level, when the pole is put up and clipped to the mast, hanging on the topping lift. If it’s lower than that, it sometimes can catch.
We also tie the jib sheets together, so the lazy sheet is a little more controlled. My newest set of jib sheets is one continuous piece, which doesn’t need to be tied. I have the jib cleats on the seat, and I also find that it’s easier to control the lazy sheet, when tacking. Doing this also seems to help keep the sheets from flapping and catching on the halyard winch or the gooseneck spring pin.
I read your linked articles. It appears that it is critical to not publish links to the actual meeting publically. The North clinics required registration, which is a good security step.
As always, we should all be careful about clicking unfamiliar links, that we receive in email, even from senders we think are known.
Another item that is mentioned, is to monitor who’s on the webinar, to keep out unknown, bad actors.
Maybe the organizers, can record the sessions and put them on YouTube for viewing later.
Thank you HotWheels for the cautionary advice. Hope you get your malware eradicated. BTW, do you have a platform for webinars that you have been using, that has a distinct edge in terms of security?
Mark is right. Hull ID numbers on the transom became mandatory by the Coast Guard, in 1972. It’s possible boats before then had hull numbers in other spots. I read somewhere that some boats had serial numbers under the Gasket, on the bottom.
As mark mentioned, the boat number, (also the sail number) is on the top of the centerboard trunk cap.Any hole that is exposing or drilling through wood, is best sealed. I like to use 3M 4200. Be careful about 5200, because it can create a bond which is near impossible to remove later, if you have to.
Probably around 1984. I had 4086, built in 1985.
You can tell by the Serial number on the right of the transom.
See this link for how to decode:
https://www.boaterexam.com/boating-resources/hull-identification-number.aspx
I have seen people use the master helper, and it seems like a good way to do it easily and safely. The young, strong and tall, can just lift up the mast, but not practical for everybody.
i have also seen people use a long line, attached to the jib halyard. You can have a second person, like your crew, hold the line and slowly raise or lower the mast as you guide it. It seems like at least 50 feet is the right length. The crew takes the line and applies tension way out in front of the boat and trailer.
BTW, always attach the trailer to the car, when raising the mast. If you step Toward the stern, to lift the mast, and the boat tips back, you can lose balance.
Here‘s a thread about the Master Helper: http://www.fssa.com/node/5815
Yes, the forum section of the website has seen a slowdown of new posts, but the web search hits on it are still very high. Funny thing is, a 60 year old one design boat, has had nearly every possible question asked and answered, so a quick Google search turns up all the answers.
There are a few die hards, that have been sailing Scots a long time, that tend to answer a lot of questions.I have mine through Geico, which was affiliated with Boat US, and mine is less than that. I would imagine it depends on boat year and value.
The steel halyard might weigh 2 pounds. The Dyneema halyard might weigh 8 ounces, and is not likely class legal. The boat weighs like 700 pounds and the people weigh 300-400. Seems like a miniscule benefit.
Sandy Douglass was very careful about the Scot, to not create an incremental arms race, in an ever changing spec for the boat. What’s next a carbon mast and boom? BTW, they would be lighter!
If you feel this is an important improvement in the Scot, you may want to ask FS Inc, if they think it’s good idea, and then craft a request for a Chief Measurers Ruling, which is a formal process for ruling on whether items are class legal. It usually applies to items that are not already specifically spelled out. The halyards are already specified as wire.I haven’t heard any. I ask what would the benefit be? Is Dyneema lower in stretch, than a steel cable?
I would think they would cost more.
Not trying to be negative, but it would be interesting to hear what you think the benefit would be, The current steel cables are pretty durable, and not very expensive to replace.
