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Viewing 15 posts - 136 through 150 (of 219 total)
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  • in reply to: FS mast needed #13133
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    The Flying Scot mast has machined areas that make it work and class legal. You will need a FS mast. You can buy a mast without the attached parts from FS Inc.
    Where do you live? Sometimes if boats are being delivered or someone is going to the factory, you can save a lot on shipping.

    Phil

    in reply to: Scot trailer set up #13129
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    If the ramp is steeper, or the trailer is in deeper, the bow may touch those middle rollers. I usually only put the trailer in far enough to just get the roller that is all the way at the back of the trailer to touch the water. If those middle rollers touch the boat while trailering, it would seem to rub on the gasket. My TeeNee trailer is the same.

    in reply to: Scot trailer set up #13125
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    They keep the bow on track and not hitting the trailer until the boost gets to the second big roller.

    in reply to: Deck Grip Tape #13124
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    Do you have a swim ladder handle where the third tape goes?

    in reply to: Replacing jib blocks #13121
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    Ratchet blocks are usually used on the jib. This allows the cleat to hold some of the sheet load when it’s blowing. This way the crew is not as tempted to leave it in the cleat all the time.

    Trimming the jib is faster than set and forget.

    If you are in a fleet, one of your fellow fleet members may have some ratchets around from a seat cleat upgrade.

    in reply to: Replacing jib blocks #13120
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    There are two popular setups. Most family and casual racing boats have ratchet blocks, on wooden blocks about midway between the skipper and the crew, when on the side deck. They then have a cleat in the line of the jib sheet and the crew, or on some boats an old-school cross-sheeting setup.

    The newer trend in boats set up for racing is to have “seat cleats”. This moves the ratchet block and the cleat down onto the seat, forward of where the crew would normally sit for racing. This clears the side decks of hardware, allowing for a third (middle) crew to sit comfortably on the side deck, without sitting on the ratchet block.

    When this is done, the spinnaker sheet system is run under the deck, or the forward turning ratchet block is set out towards the rail, to keep it out from under your crew’s butt.

    Both setups are shown on Flying Scot Inc website. One big benefit of getting a kit from Harry is that they include all the parts you need, like fasteners, and instructions. They have very fair prices, usually a couple bucks less than trying to figure it out at West Marine.

    in reply to: Leaks only underway #13117
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    Click the FS Inc link on the left menu. Harry is very helpful. I am still having a tough time imagining water coming in through these bolts.

    Harry will know how to remedy the problem.

    1-800-864-7208

    Phil

    in reply to: Rigging Checklist #13112
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    Looks like a good list. It leaves out the steps of putting the main in the boom sail track, threading the outhaul and snapping the jib onto the forestay, attaching the jib halyard.

    You would also thread the jib sheets.

    I normally do these steps before launching. That way you raise the main, raise the jib, drop the board, and rudder if deep enough, and sail away.

    The step where you set the shrouds depends somewhat on your boat, but is a good start. Once you decide on the right setting, mark the holes, and then tape. One good way to be fast and easy, is to have a repeatable setup. Mark everything you can.

    in reply to: Leaks only underway #13109
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    If you don’t find the leak, I would call Harry.  The stanchion bolts go throught the front of the keel section that is in front of the CB trunk.  Those bolts should not be exposed to water, unless the water is inside the boat.  The tip on the seat drain hoses is a good lead.  i would look at that side.If you really think it is the bolts, you could remove them, only one at a time, goop up the holes, all the way through with 3M 5200 Sealant and then put them back in.  5200 will make them waterproof.  The catch is that with 5200, you will not be able to get them back out, ever, in all likelihood.  Take only one out at a time, to keep the tabernacle holes aligned.I would doubt very much that is were the water is entering.  I find that water in the boat comes from 3 places:1 Rain2 Spray/Splash in breezy conditions, especially upwind in chop.3 CapsizeA leaky plug could do it.  Look at the plug and the smooth edges of the drain hole.  If they are not so smooth, that could be it. 

    in reply to: Wanted: Sails for club racing #13102
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    Did you see the sails that Bill Ewing has for sale? They would be good for club racing. They are on this forurm.

    in reply to: New to forum with a towing question #13101
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    We have towed our Scot with a Passat 1.8t and a Tiguan 2.0t. If your A3 is a 2.0, it should be fine. What tow capacity do they list?

    Funny story on the Tiguan. VW publishes 2200 Kg in Europe and 2200 Lbs in the US. The car is equipped the same. I guess we have more lawyers in the states.

    We also have a Toyota Sienna which does a great job.

    in reply to: Wanted: Sails for club racing #13100
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    You may want to post where you are located.  Your local fleet can probably help find some sails.  If you are in Eastern PA, come visit us at Lake Nockamixon.   

    in reply to: Question about the centerboard #13097
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    In general, I think polyester resin and gelcoat are the most compatible repair materials, in terms of adhesion and hardness.  Marine tex and epoxy are easy to work with.  I think the best approach over Marine-tex would be to paint with a good epoxy paint.  I would probably only paint the areas where you repaired, which is often just the tip.Phil

    in reply to: Upper Transom Rudder Fitting Question #13095
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    No, but the other fitting has bolts that you could take one out and bring to the hardware store. Otherwise call Harry and order from him.

    Phil

    in reply to: Upper Transom Rudder Fitting Question #13093
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    The rudder fittings are bolted through the transom on my Douglass.

    There are stainless steel nuts visible inside the boat.

    Phil Scheetz
    FS 4086

Viewing 15 posts - 136 through 150 (of 219 total)
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