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I agree with Jay that this string is somewhat odd. The class has not had this clarification up to this point.So it seems that the folks who are holding the shroud while sitting on the rail in the normal crew position are ok. What if they were sitting outboard of the shroud, straddling it, and hanging onto the shroud or chainplate with both hands? It seems that would be illegal.Does this need to be clarified?
I think that is the question you are asking. If they were protested by a competitor, how would the RC rule?hiking is not monitored by referees on the water, so a protest is the way to resolve.
Since the Scot class has gone through nearly every permutation of question about hiking straps and other hiking aids, and have settled on the hiking line, which is pretty well defined, this makes sense. Many other classes have hiking straps and very aggressive hiking. If one wants to out-hike the competition, boats such as the Thistle are perfect. A few of the new classes, like the new sportboat classes, limit hiking very closely. I think this helps the longevity of the class, as a wider range of ages and body types can be very competitive in the boat.An example of hiking in the Scot.http://www.photoboatgallery.net/p583038362/hfdc7dcc#h1a92bcb5This Terhune family seems to do well without holding the shroud:http://www.photoboatgallery.net/p583038362/hfdc7dcc#h12617984
You may want to add where you live or sail, and how far you are willing to travel for a boat. Check out the Caveat Emptor page on this site. A local fleet can also help you find a good boat.Welcome to the Flying Scot!
These are good tips. My crew at the 2011 NAC was 85at the time. He started sailing in 1947. Moving across the boat is somewhat of a challenge up in the crew spot. We found that gripping the vang made it easier to steady yourself as you cross the boat while tacking. For the skipper, you may want to add a non-skid surface around the centerboard trunk.
The title in most states will have the HIN which is like a VIN, but in many states the boat number is not on title. Can’t go wrong with the 2″ high number on the centerboard trunk cap.
The boat number should be in 2″ numerals on the top of the centerboard trunk. A boat of that age probably does not have the hull number which became mandatory in the 70s which is on the starboard transom. The number on the trunk should also appear on the mainsail and spinnaker.If one shroud is snapped, I would plan to buy both. You probably will want to replace the forestay and halyards when you order your lines. Flying Scot Inc has all that reasonable prices. Harry, Karen and Dee at the factory will give you great advice.Do you have a fleet nearby? They can also be a great source of free advice and knowledgable rigging labor.
The mahogany sides of my stanchion are solid, it appears, on both the old and the new. Neither appears to have a glue joint. I still have the old one around if anyone wants it.
They do seem like a decent product for very little money. I have seen people be very happy with their Sunfish and Laser practice sails.
You may want to look at the caveat emptor. There are some pretty decent looking sails on there. Also some sailmakers have the fall deals going on right now. I think North goes through Oct 19 at 15% off. They have a recreational main that is a lower price made from a heavier fabric. This sail is probably not as resin-stiff as a race sail. If you want crispy a race sail that has low mileage is the ticket.
Did you check with Fleet 40, which it seems is likely your local fleet? They may know of boats that are gathering dust in a barn or backyard. There are relatively fewer Scots on the West Coast.How far are you willing to travel? Boats in your price range are a little harder to predict the condition, so buying sight-unseen from far away has more risk. You may want to inquire with the factory to see if they have a brokered boat around. With Harry you will surely get an honest and knowledgeable assessment of the boat.
http://www.flyingscotracing.com/Flying_Scot_products/masterhelper.htmThis page shows the product. I am sure Dan Neff would email you the directions.
See this link for the North Tuning Guide. Most of this is accurate, no matter which sailmaker you have.http://www.onedesign.com/Portals/106/docs/Tuning%20Guides/north-flyingsc…
