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What’s your question? It seems any info on the cranks would be available from Harry. I would imagine there are not a lot of other uses for them.
I always get mine from Flying Scot Inc, usually 5 at a time. When a fellow Scot owners needs a crank, it’s only right to hook them up with one from your stash…
Intensity should be able to tell you based on their design. I would imagine the number and position of grommets matters.
Glenn, we could trade for a season. My boat has the nifty adjustable track. I have never moved it. It’s in the middle somewhere.
The part I have been trying to get better at is looking for breeze and shifts behind me, and staying on them, while getting my windex to point at the boat ahead to sneak up on their air. My starts at the WH gave me ample opportunity to try to pass boats that were ahead of me….;-)Sometimes Harry at Flying Scot has used boards. The Wife Husband is next weekend at Deep Creek. As a result there may be boats from New England going to the area of the Factory. Maybe someone can throw a board in their boat, van or truck, who is coming back to New England.
Call Harry or Dee, and see what they have. If you find a board from them, contact me, and I can probably connect you to someone who is able to bring it back at least part way. I live in eastern PA, but I think there are also boats from the Boston area going.
PhilI have an external set and it works fine. It has a small block at the clew. The line dead-ends in the clew fitting, goes through the clew grommet of the sail, then through the block, and runs forward. I then have some purchase up front on the boom. I will try to take pictures this weekend. Someone else was asking about the vang, so I want to take a few pics of that anyway.
To get the boat back on the trailer, i always launch it onto a slightly convex hump in my yard. I slide it off onto a heavy plastic tarp, which i put soapy water on. It’s just like launching into water, but you have to steady the boat side to side, so it doesn’t bump the trailer and scratch.
Putting it back on is easy. You get a helper to sit on the transom, while you put a 4X4 block, with a throwable cushion between the block and the boat, under the bow. This lifts the bow just a bit. You then bring the empty trailer, without the car, and place the center roller under the bow centerline, and connect your winch strap. The trailer tongue will be about 6 feet in the air. Have a helper keep the boat steady and level, side to side. Start cranking the boat onto the trailer, and be careful to keep it headed up the center rollers. You can maneuver the trailer by moving the tongue left or right. As the boat first begins to climb onto the trailer, the trailer is actually getting pulled under the boat, as the boat is stationary. As the boat clears the ground, you will reach a balance point where the tongue will come down. If you crank too fast, it will come down too fast, as the boat goes past its tipping point. Crank it up tight, and you have it.
Slow and steady wins the race, as getting it straight on the trailer is important.
Have fun.I have used Glenn’s method to take out the board. The second method seems like a lot of work. I have also launched the boat onto the grass, raised the mast and then used a rope to pull the boat over. You tie the line just above the shrouds on the mast. I then use a 50 lb sandbag on the top of the mast to hold the boat on its side.
This allows you to check out the board, and work on the bottom, or change the gasket if needed. If you are going to do the work, you may as well fix all the variables while you can get to them.
Removing the board is tricky on its side, as it will wedge in the trunk. You need two people to remove it easily. You only need it down part way to fix any dings, since they are usually in the leading edge. That said it is easier to work on it out of the boat. Be careful not to “improve” the profile, as the factory profile is the only class-legal shape.
The bow eye and stern rings are not meant to hold the weight of the boat. Don’t get under it.
PhilIf you have found wet wood in the rudder, I would bring it inside and take out all the screws. If you have wet wood in one area you may have more.
Storing wooden parts indoors for a good part of the year, is always a good idea. If you can put the rudder inside a sunny window, where the sun will dry out the rudder with daily heating, you will likely find it to be dry by spring. Put the screw holes up, facing the sun. If you can dig out small bits of wet wood go ahead and pull these out.
When it’s dry, you can start to repair. I would use a good epoxy, like West System. Mix the resin and catalyst. The mix in as much chopped glass matt as you can get in the mix. Stuff the hole with as much of this mix as you can. Don’t worry about glass sticking out of the hole. You can sand this off after it cures.
It may also be helpful to drill the holes larger, to get rid of any wet or rotten wood. This gives you a big strong plug around the screw. Remember that the load on these is mainly side to side, so don’t drill your holes so large as to get too close to the outer edge of the wood. The wood is wrapped in glass, and then gelcoat.
Use the rudder gudgeon as a template for you new holes, and drill very carefully. The glass plug may feel harder to the drill than the wood around it. Be careful to drill the new holes in the size that will allow the screw to go in tightly, but not so tightly that you have to worry about splitting the new plug. If you can leave one hole in original state, this allows you to put that screw back in first to get the gudgeon located in precisely the right place, as you drill the new holes. Two original holes is even better. If all four are bad, and you you can stage it with two at a time, that will make it easier to align everything.
We used this method to repair holes for ski binding screws and it is pretty strong.The pole downhaul attaches to the middle of the pole. I have one hook, that is primarily for the topping lift. The downhaul is tied onto the ring for that same hook. The way my downhaul works is that it has elastic shock cord under the deck, that runs in a multipart arrangement through some pulleys. It pulls down just hard enough to keep the pole from rising. The downhaul has a knot that keeps the pole from going too high. If you have the guy under a hook near the chainplate, it willnever go that high, but the knot keeps it under control if it isn’t under either hook.
