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Viewing 15 posts - 76 through 90 (of 219 total)
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  • in reply to: Forestay extension wearing into Bow Plate #13405
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    Only on the loose rig is there any balance of tension between the forestay and the jib halyard.  For snug and tight rigs, the forestay holds the tension, and the halyard just adjusts the luff tension of the jibcloth .  Once you set the tension, the forestay toggle should stay pegged.
     

    in reply to: Tang? and bridal #13396
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    540100 on Scot store.

    in reply to: Towing your Scot #13386
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    There is a pretty long thread on this.  The answer lies in how fast, how far and how hilly?  I have a VW Tiguan, 4 cyl, which does OK, but you can feel the boat more than with our Toyota Sienna. We have some fleet members who use Toyota Prius, but mainly to tow from the dry slip to the dock, and back.  If we’re going local, or Jersey Shore, we can use either.  Deep Creek means the Sienna, as you have some major hills.
    Gutsy 4 cylinders, like the Suburu Forrester seem to work well.  6 is better, like the Sienna, Odyssey, or Pilot.  
    8 is more than you need.

    in reply to: centerboard leading edge photo #13385
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    You can get a paper template from Harry for the outline shape of the board.  The cross section is a little tougher, but be sure to not make it too sharp.  The leading edge is about 1/4″ thick, 1/4″ back from the edge. 
    These are very approximate guesses.  The cross sectional profile of the leading edge is the same from the top, near the boat, to almost the tip of the leading edge.  You should be able to pattern it after a section that is good further up.
    Harry can also answer your question on the rails.  I think the peices used on new boats are longer, and are only short as parts, to make them shippable.  I think the new boats only have two sections per side.

    in reply to: Jibing while racing #13384
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    The beauty of a forum is that you can start a new thread!
    Jibe pole before main or after?
    Differences sailing with two versus three in the boat?
    Heavy air versus light air techniques?

    in reply to: Jibing while racing #13378
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    If you are already by the lee, Ifind if you grab the mainsheet just below the block on the boom and pull the boom in slightly, it will go across.  This helps avoid the slack catching on the corners of the stern, or snagging on the rudder head.  Because you have not pulled it through the ratchet block and cleat, the sail goes back out to where it needs to be on the new jibe, and is not over trimmed.

    in reply to: Jibing while racing #13376
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    I also often gybe this way.  I make sure that the mainsheet does not have so much slack that the boom can hit the shroud, and let her rip.  Keep in mind that if you are sailing with two, that the skipper is managing the guy and spinnaker sheet and steering the boat with the tiller between theIr knees, as the crew moves the pole, when jibing.  This is especially true on the leeward (non-triangle) legs.

    in reply to: Signature Finish ? Bottom paint #13373
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    Is the boat painted now?  Will you store in the water?
    If it’s gelcoat now, and you don’t plan to store in water, I would question painting it.
     

    in reply to: Installing winch and halyards #13372
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    We have an active fleet at Lake Nockamixon.  We also have a bunch of folks who can help you get the boat dialed.
    If you are near the lake, come on out, and bring your Scot.  if the boat isn’t ready, you can also crew with others, which is a great way to get more comfortable in the Scot.  Our calendar gets approved this weekend, so it will be final as of Sunday at http://www.nockamixonsailclub.org
    We start frostbite racing in mid April, and our fleet series start the first weekend in May.  

    in reply to: Installing winch and halyards #13370
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    By the way, your local fleet can often help you get the boat legal and raceable.  It’s is everyone’s interest to keep the Scot a one-design.  It makes the racing more fun and keeps the value in the boats.  Most fleets have some folks who have centuries in the Scot combined.
    On your rub rail question, is that an aesthetic choice, or is the old one messed up?  If you put a wood rail on the boat, you will increase the maintenance.  New aluminum from Harry probably costs less than really good straight-grained hardwood in over 20 foot lengths.  Bob Neff, the FSSA measurer, can answer definitively on the class legality of the wood rail.

    in reply to: Installing winch and halyards #13369
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    The rivets for the winch can be gotten from FS Inc.  Dee, Karen or Harry will be sure you get the right ones.   They are kind of specialized and you may not find locally. Do you already have the winch?  The rivets are pretty easy to drive with a ball pean hammer.
    The halyards are also pretty easy. The only catch is it helps if you have the tool for squeezing on the metal stopper that keeps the halyard from coming off the spool if  it unwinds completely.  Do you have a fleet nearby?  Usually someone in most fleets will have one and know how to use it.
    Most fleets would welcome you, as long as you have safety gear and cut some slack for you to get the boat legal.  If you go to a sanctioned event like the NAC, MidWinters or Wife Husband,you will need the boat legal.
    Locally, most fleets will let you race as you figure out the boat, with the exception of the unlikely possibility that you would use some some illegal element to clean everyone’s clock on the course.  At districts, and above, or serious regattas, the expectation is that you will show up with a class-legal boat.  That is what one-design is about.
    A good guide is that if an event is big enough to have two fleets, championship and challenger, then it’s likely big enough to need a class legal boat, and not too much slack. 

    in reply to: Wooden rub rail ? #13367
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    I have never seen it done, and it would likely make the boat unable to meet class rules.  The standard rub rail, as an integral part of the hull has to be the factory spec for the boat to be class legal.
     I would consult Harry at the factory on whether it’s ok structurally.  There are bolts under the aluminum rail that hold the deck and hull together.
    It seems like a bad idea, unless you never race, and never plan to sell the boat, as it will decrease the value.

    in reply to: Proposed change to Class Spec S-V.7 – VHF Radios #13353
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    Let’s be clear, there is no rule against carrying a VHF today.  Carrying one for safety purposes in the event of an emergency is allowed and advisable.
    The use of any communications device during racing is a slippery slope, and will become a defacto requirement.  If allowing radios is a path to activists in the class bringing in autobailers, etc, then I am opposed.  If they want autobailers, hiking straps or other such “improvements”, there are many boats that offer these.  Maybe a pure one-design isn’t for them.
    One of the best tests of skill in our sport is to start on time.  Being over early is a big deal.  Does it make sense to reduce the penalty of infraction?
     

    in reply to: Inspect Those Lines! #13345
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    With a defect like that you may need a new boat…
     

    in reply to: How does purchase work with centerboard hoist? #13342
    sawyerspadre
    Participant

    The centerboard drum adds mechanical advantage .  I think it is 16 to 1, if I remember correctly.  It also depends on if your line or cable to the CB is two to one or one to one.
     
    Phil

Viewing 15 posts - 76 through 90 (of 219 total)
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