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If you are planning on installing them and race at FSSA events, it’s possible it will be deem not class legal. The Handbook specifies that the halyards are to be wire.
The stress on the boom from excessive vang pressure over time will eventually cause the boom to break. Be sure to back the vang off when bearing off, as the wind lightens up, etc. Where are you located? I have a boom. I am in Connecticut
The tapered end should be facing aft, so it sounds like your blade is backwards. Simply unbolt the blade and turn it around. For reference, there should be a notch on the blade which should be on the leading edge of the blade when attached to the rudder head. Do not wax the blade, it will not add any benefit. The lift kit works great and be sure not too overtighten the bolt that holds the blade on the rudder head!
Best of luck!
Mark
FS 5516Chris
Look under your deck and you may find that no screws are necessary. On some of the older Flying Scots there are fiberglass holders on the under sides of the deck that hold the bins on. Cut the corners so that you can slide them on. I usually drill some 1/8″ holes at the bottom corners to let any water out but they usually remain dry as they are under the deck. For the opening itself, I use a 3″ hole saw and cut two holes on the side and then cut the remaining section out and then file the edge smooth. It’s an easy project.For further information, https://flyingscot.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Storage-Lockers.pdf
MarkI’ve been sailing Flying Scots since 1977 and can tell you I’ve never seen cracks like those! I’m not famliar with the Flying Scots constructed by West Scot, but I am pretty sure that the Gordon Douglas or Flying Scot Inc pulled their license to construct Flying Scots due to such issues.
But in any case, they can be fixed assuming that the cracks are superficial and not all the way through to the balsa core or the wood reinforcement in the deck. Without looking at it first hand, its hard to tell. If they are superficial, that you can repair it with gelcoat. If the cracks introduced water to the wood reinforcement or balsa, then there is a bigger issue. Balsa does not mix well with water as it sponges it up and turns to mush or if the wood reinforcement is rotted it could affect the structural integrity of the deck in that area. The good thing, the crack running down the side of the seat back is mostly fiberglass. The issue I see where water could get to the balsa core or the wood reinforcement is at the cleat itself and if the cracks lead to the gunwale.
Hope I didn’t scare you, but do some due dilegence and if you can find someone who is familiar with the Flying Scot, have them take a look at it for you.
MarkStill for sale! Spring is here and a new sailing season is about to start. Don’t miss out this season. Inquire today!
Check out Toms River Yacht Club, Seaside Park Yacht Club, Shore Acres Yacht Club and Monmouth Boat Club.
I usually keep the following handy in my car. A knife, screwdrivers (slotted and phillips), electrical tape to tape the rigging, pliers, tape measure, extra split rings, cotter pins, pins for the blocks, extra cordage of various sizes, boat soap, sponge, brush, dust pan and broom and a 5 gallon bucket.
The basic Flying Scot is the same no matter what hull number it is. It’s the rigging that’s different and varies among owners. To go from a cruising to a racing will involve some expense by the owner depending on how they want to rig the boat. The costs for hardware can add up quick and that’s not even including the sails. To go from racing to cruising, the costs are substanially lower. One significant difference is the jib sheeting. On a cruising/day sailing set up there is typically a turning block on the deck and the line led to a cleat nearby it. Where as on a race setup, the jib sheeting is typically led to a turning block on the forward section of the seat and then to a cleat. Spinnaker setup can also vary. Most of the Flying Scots that race will have internal sheeting, take up reel for the halyard and topping lift control line led aft, where as the cruising/day sailing spinnaker halyard, topping lift may be at the base of the mast or near it. Hope this helps.
