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I thought of doing the same as last year I waxed and polished 5516. Looks great but slippery when it gets wet, stupid me. I recently bought 1″ non skid tape then came across a roll of 18″x 36″ non skid padding that can be cut to shape and sticked onto the deck. I saw a boat from Florida with something similar several years ago and thought I it would give it try.
Will let you know how it worked out in a few months.Phil
On my Scot, the vang is closet aft, topping lift in the middle and the cunningham on the forward set. This is how it came from the factory in 2003. I also have the Waco for the centerboard. I hope this helps.James
I assume that the crack is on the aft deck. The core is made of balsa, which loves to absorb water if allowed to do so. I had 2516 a while back which had a crack through the hull from her previous owner. The balsa core was wet and the area for repair was far more extensive than I thought. We got her back together pretty well as we went in from the floor as opposed from the outside in and replaced the damaged core and reglassed it all back. Deck repairs can be tricky and the best suggestion is to contact Flying Scot Inc.The NOR has been posted. http://www.fssa.com/sites/default/files/sandusky_nor_rev_1-26-17.doc
Races start on Monday with 3 scheduled for Qualifiers. For the rest of the week, Tuesday through Thursday, five races are scheduled. If by the end of the day on Wednesday, the number of races are behind, the RC can extend the race schedule.
Looking forward to a great week and being part of the 60th Anniversary of the Flying Scot!
Mark Riefenhauser
FS 99 and 5516
Candlewood Yacht Club-Fleet 24To keep the boat stable, install the bridle so that it stradles the boom. Also make sure that you have vang pressure on and tighten the main sheet as well. This will keep the boom in place. If you are racing with other Scots, borrow their bridle and have them help you. I’m sure that they will be happy too! Good luck!
I would strongly advise not getting in the habit of jibing by pulling on the vang. Main reason, the vang is the closet point on the boom to the mast. With pressure on the main, you are more than likely to bend the boom in the wrong way, especially if the wind is cranking. I jibe by allowing the wind do the work with a little assistance as needed. That might mean trimming the main a little and then letting it out as the boom comes across the boat.
Not sure what I mean, go and look at the boom on the boat. Imagine pressure is being spread across the entire length. Now picture yourself trying to move the aft end of the boom but doing it from the point of the vang. It’s a long way down there!Having been at the MW’s which the VHF was tried out and the NAC’s last year, I like to make a few comments.
At the MW’s when the VHF was a trail run, I found that the VHF was handy and helpful as it really helped identify the OCS boats. Being hard of hearing, it’s very difficult for me to hear any Individual recall, especially on a long staring line or if there are any notofications on the water by the RC.
On a long starting line it’s often difficult to tell where you are on the line, especially when you have a hard time establishing a reference line. For instance, at the NAC’s at Lake Norman last summer, I had several close starts, but never knew if I was over early or not, that affected my boat speed and strategy as I kept waiting for either a Individual or General Recall as there were other boats in the same place near me. Those first few minutes are critical.
Thus, have we had the VHF’s, we would know sooner than later if I was OCS or not. In addition, getting the fleet restarted would go much faster.Glenn
Looks great, what did you use for the lines? I have to replace both of mine bridles as they were to like yours at the end of the season.
Don’t use latex paint. There is a boot stripe paint available for marine use. Make sure you sand any loose paint.
