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There’s the easy way – but it has some up front effort… And, then there’s the hard way – I did not do this.
Hard – get foam, install, glass upside down ( HARD !!! )
‘Easier’ – buy the foam – I thought about using the blue stuff they make docks from and cutting with a styrofoam heat knife ( Harbor Freight or DIY online ). I ended up just using my original stuff – mine was in good shape.
‘Ya gotta flip the boat to do this like a gentleman. Be sure to remove the centerboard first. Flip it w/ 5-6 guys with ease. Lay it on (2) car tires, right where the chain plates are – DO NOT BEND THESE. Then, lift the stern ( this is the heavy side ) and put on (2) towers of cinder blocks and 4×4’s ( I used two side by side ). Use a sturdy horse for the front. I had boat stands, so I used those.
It’s a lot to write / describe – please let me know if you need more description on the glass process. You need to cut strips of roving – I put plastic between these strips and the styrofoam so as to not melt the styro w/ resin. Working with the boat upside down lets gravity work for you and not against.
I had hull 877 ( a 1965 or ’66 ) – the older boats are built very stout ! I would seal the (2) holes with fiberglass and top with gelcoat, re-drill for the new boom crutch configuration ( they sell a kit ). It’s a better design.
If you’re hell bent on the old config, then go to hardware store or home depot and buy brass tubing ( are you sure it;s not cooper ? The through hull seat and hull frains are copper ). You can buy a flange kit that puts a flange on one side of the tube, cut to the right length then epoxy in place.Rigging knife, wire cutters, Floatation cushion and bungee ( if you capsize, swim to mast to attach so it doesn’t turtle ). Extra line – to pull mast up if it comes down, and to be towed if necessary. Extra halyards and (1) extra stay. Extra bolt/nuts for block : rudderhead attachment. Towel, grease for winch assemb, zip lock bags, and a lantern to attach to mast if you get stuck in dark. An anchor with plenty of line. Flares for emergnecy. Lots of rum and (6) paks of pineapple juice, cups, coozie’s !
I boat in a large, windy, choppy bay where weather and immediate assistance are variables. If something goes wrong, I’m ready to deal with it.I have not tried it yet but will do so in the Spring. Every other year I transfer from trailer to stands to get a full coat of antifouling on. I’ve wanted to try the (2) 4×4’s for awhile. ‘Should’ work. Also, I think I might try to shim my trunk as it’s a 1965 hull and all original ‘down there’.
There’s always something to do – need to R/R my through seat copper drain tube – I’ve done (at least (2) of the others in the past. I try to keep my ole girl, yare…
Winter-well.
Great synopsis as I sail in heavy wind a lot ( it’s that or don’t sail at all ). To add to the challenge, I deal with shallow water areas that add another dimension of weather helm as the centerboard is sometimes lifted almost all the way up to get over a sandbar in 15-20 mph winds.
I cannot stress the value of a reef system and reefing. It really helps to depower things. And, if I’m alone, which is how I sail more often than not, in anything over 15-17, it makes the sail much more comfortable. Either way, the only point of sail that I have issue with is beating and pinching which it seems I need to do a lot to navigate islands etc to go where I want. Otherwise, I love flying on a beam in heavier wind.
I learned a lot on this discussion regarding vang, which I use often, and it seems incorrectly. Centerboard – which I have just started to use differently to reduce helm. Jib adjustment – I like the idea of loosening to reduce the pressure in the slot and on the main – helping to keep pressure more forward. I’ll try some of these new tactics and hopefully heal less, have less weather helm and be able to sail more efficiently.
One thing I do not have is a cunningham – sounds like a great tool !
Thanks
I recommend going to the hardware store with your crutch or at least the inner diameter of it and buy a rubber stopper that fits into the bottom hole but – with at least 1/4″ hang out.
I cannot tell you how many FS’ I have seen ruined ( wet balsa floor ) due to the SS or aluminum crutch having drilled a hole through its mounting pad and into the floor – allowing rainwater or other to get into the core area – it takes a very short period of time to allow a good portion of the floor to get wet – and then, you’re in for a world of hurt ! My boat is at a mooring and the constant movement of rig with the downward pressure of the boom against the boom crutch equals a drilling motion.
A .30 rubber stopper prevents this. And, every other year I have to replace this rubber stopper due to the beating it takes.
” The only mistake was the tilting chain plate got a liitle bent when on when the movement shifted it to the side wall. Pearced the sidewall ? but bent a bit.”
Did you bend the chainplate ? Not sure how, but neither of us are pro’s, so sh*t happens. Next time, you need to put the tire hole on that side ( and the other ) where the chainplate will be – to avoid ANY contact of the chainplate with anything solid If you bent it, ( I’ve never done this ), I would not use heat – unless FS says to – it could change the properties of the metal. You need to get this right ! Or, you’re in for a lot of headache.
If it were me ( again, not a pro ), I would copy the angle of the other side with (2) tongue depressors with a nut/ bolt at one end and tighten to minimc the angle. Then, I’d take two solid pcs of wood, ( 1′ x 1/2″ x 2″ ) sandwich the chain plate between these (2) pcs of wood, screw the (2) pcs of wood together with several screws – with the chainplate sandwiched – and use the (2) pcs of wood with the chainplate in the middle as leverage to pull the plate out to the right angle – slowly.
Make sense ?
If you have ’em, use life preservers, throw seat cushions, more tires to lay the boat on. I did mine on my lawn so it was pretty smooth.
While the board is out, inpsect it for wear – glass it back to shape if needed.
Great time to R/R the centerboard gasket – you’ll never have better access. Careful with the bronze, gasket framing – they’re BRITTLE ! Follow FS directions – they use a block to tighten it before you install new gasket ( very good idea )… And, to sand and paint the bottom ‘purty. I flipped mine and lifted into the air to re-glass the original under-the-seat foam block straps into place after a MAJOR repair ( needed gravity on my side )…
Good luck. Take it slow and be careful. Bring strong guys – (5) guys even better.
I did it sans tractor. If you can, while sliding her off the trailer, while the transom is on ground, and the bow is still resting on the trailer, remove centerboard ( tractor would be nice here ! ) – you have to get centerboard out before you flip ( careful, that sucker wants to hurt you ! I got ‘pinched’ by it once and it opened a finger up nicely )
Lay 2-3 tires on each side, where the boat will be when flipped – assuring that 1 of these tires IS PLACED W/ IT’S HOLE DIRECTLY WHERE THE CHAINPLATE WILL BE ON EACH SIDE. Then, with 3-4 guys lift her edge.
Then, slowly flip the boat, with 2 or 3 guys now on the other side to slowly let her come down – again BEING SURE TO HAVE ONE OF THE TIRES WITH IT’S HOLE JUST RIGHT SO THE CHAINPLATE RESTS IN THE HOLE – this assures that the chainplates does not get bent.
Manpower was the ticket for me.
Gin and Tonic in hand – I’M A DARK RUM AND PINEAPPLE GUY – PICK YOUR POISON
Cut out upper layer of gray hull walking surface with surface saw set to 1/4″.
Remove remains of wet balsa core. CAREFULLY SO AS TO NOT GO THROUGH HULL. A PROPERLY USED CHISEL USED UPSIDE DOWN WORKS WELL.
Dry hull with forced air dryer. NOT SURE HOW WELL THIS WILL WORK – USE A HEAT LAMP TOO. BE CAREFUL I.E. FIRE HAZARD
YOU REALLY SHOULD DO THE 12:1 RATIO CREATING AN ANGLE BETWEEN THE GOOD, SOLID AREA TO THE DAMAGED AREA – LIKE SCARFING A JOINT…
Scratch up the exposed Fiberglass exterior hull inner layer for better bond. CLEAN WITH ACETONE WELL FIRST THEN USE 80 GRIT OR MORE
Apply setting bed of resin: Total Boat Polyester Resin. TAPE OFF CLEAN, GOOD AREA. APPLY ‘LAMINATE’ RESIN WITH PAINTBRUSH. PRECUT 2 LAYERS OF MAT TO FIT YOUR HOLE IN THE FLOOR. WET OUT MAT AND LAY IN YOUR HOLE. PLACE PREFIT BALSA ONTO THAT. PLACE WEIGHTS, SANDBAGS, OR BRICKS ON TOP OF BALSA TO HOLD IT DOWN WELL – LET KICK AND HARDEN FOR DAY.
Apply replacement balsa into wet resin bed. Let Harden.
Sand new balsa for fair surface with palm sander, leaving course 60 grit surface. SAND BALSA TO BE LOWER THAN FLOOR SO WHEN YOU GLASS ON TOP IT WILL THEN BE LEVEL
Apply generous wet resin bed. Make sure it gets inbetween voids between balsa blocks.
Apply course woven fibreglass into wet resin.
Apply generous wet resin atop woven FG. Allow to Harden.
Sand for fair surface, leave a course grit surface.
Apply unwaxed Gelcoat layers one and two. SKIP THIS
Apply waxed Gelcoat top layer with matching multi color?, and slight sand added for non- slip?
No clue about that last step. I have no idea how FS finishes the inside of the hull for a standing surface to not be too slippery. YOU’RE NOT GOING TOP GET IT MATCH PERFECTLY. A PRO COULD. YOU JUST WANT IT TO BE STRUCTURALLY SOUND AND LOOK GOOD
Am I missing something?
BE CAREFUL NOT TO USE TOO MUCH RESIN – MORE IS NOT BETTER. THE RATIO OF RESIN SHOULD BE ‘JUST RIGHT’.
IF YOU GET A COPY OF THE WEST SYSTEM’S MANUAL ( ITS LIKE A MAGAZINE ) ON GLASS LAY UP – YOU WILL BE ALMOST A PRO ! ITS $5 ?Yes – the wood under the boom crutch support is balsa, I’m sorry to say and a design flaw. I’ve seen many a boat with a wet floor due to the boom crutch wearing the glass in the area away, typically from a boat on a mooring where the boom moves around and transfers that movement to the crutch where that slowly digs a hole into the core where rain water makes short work of the core into mush…
How long was this hole exposed to water ?
Try the scedriver thing on the floor – you’ll get a good idea how far that water went. The other bad thing is of you live in a freeze zone, then the water and freezing can be even moire destructive ( think glaciers, ice etc. )
