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You need to be more specific – pix help. If you’re refering to the aft deck – and there is that much ‘mush’, chances are… and you’re not going to want to hear this, that a lot, most, or all of your aft deck’s core is wet.
If you’re not handy, then I would recommend finding someone who does fiberglass repair to assess and repair the damage. Or, an experienced FS owner.
The forward deck, the aft deck, the side decks, the floor are all made in a sandwich construction of, from the top: gelcoat, laminate glass/resin, balsa wood, laminiate glass ( the floor does not have a gelcoat top ). This layup creates great strength and lightness. FS’ are built like tanks. This will last for a very long time… AS LONG AS WATER DOES NOT GET IN TO THE WOOD… If water gets in, the balsa turns to mush quickly – the strength and structural integrity are gone. And, if you encase the wet wood with a half-assed repair, that wood will rot lickety-split. Unfortunately, almost all I have read says that wet wood will not dry – so it’s gotta come out.
The repair must be done right.
I would take a screwdriver – hold the metal shaft in your hand and use the plastic handle as as a sounder against the cored areas. Knock a cored area you know is solid. Hear that nice ping? – it’s a solid sound and feel.
Now, take the scredriver and knock the area where you know its wet – hear that thud ? That’s a delaminated area – where the wood is wet, or mush and not holding to the (2) layers of glass… Knock the screwdriver further away from the thud to where the thud sound starts to ‘tighten up’ – that’s where you’re getting back to healthier core ( this can still be wet and will still need to be removed ). Once you get back to a nice ping sound – you can assume that the area is either ‘good’ or marginal…
I’ve done extensive repair on these boats and although it is not rocket-science, it does take a certain level of skill and commitment to repair. And, at the time, I seemed to have more time than money ! If you have some money – PAY to have it repaired – so you can maximize your sailing time ! However, I would make sure the rest of the boat is OK before you start because every area where there’s a through deck fiting is highly suspect for allowing water into the balsa… Check the chainplates, the jib sheet block on side decks ( if equipped ), the boom crutch hole via the SS fitting through the aft deck and the boom crotch resting point in the floor, to name a few…
I have ‘potted’ with epoxy every through hole in my boat ’cause once you do this type of repair, you never want to do it again !
Good luck !
It’s easy if you do not want to worry about cosmetics. So, let’s assume that’s what you want unless you state differently.
Clean the area directly inside the hull where each hole is with acetone before you sand. Get some acetone in the holes too. Let it dry out for a few minutes.
Roll sandpaper into shape of a cigarette ( so you can sand in the holes – sand each hole just to give it a fresh edge ( use 80 grit ). Blow out with compressed air or your lungs. Clean again with acetone. Let air dry a few minutes.
Tape the holes on the outside with good painters tape so no resin can leak out. Tape around the holes on the inside so when you inject the resin in, it will only get on this removable tape and not on the hull.
Go buy resin ( with parafin ) called finishing resin and catalyst. Buy cabosil ( you don’t need much ) – this is a thickening agent. Having a syringe really makes it easy ( I clean these with acetone and use them for several jobs )
Mix up the resin as described on can ( a take out chinese soup container works well ) – enough to fill the holes and then some ( do more than you need ) try not to do this on a scorching day and not in direct sunlight as heat/ temperature affects cure time. Once mixed properly, and working quickly ( not racing ! ) I would take a Q tip or a small flux brush from Harbor Freight – dip in the mixed resin and ‘paint’ each hole with some resin.
Then, add the cabosil into the remaining resin mix – add slowly, mixing, until you get the consistency of mayonnaise.
Personally, I would carefully fill a syringe with this thickened mixture and insert the syringe deep into each hole, squeezing out the mixture and slowly pulling the syringe out to assure that you completely fill the hole and leave no voids. When you get to the end of a hole, clean the hole area of any resin, have a pc of tape ready – put tape on the bottom portion of the hole – squeeze the mixture in as it fills the very end – then push the tape closed – closing the completely filled hole.
Repeat on each hole.
Clean up any mess or drips with acetone ( use papertowles or box o rags.
Let cure over night. Pull tape and you’ll be done.
Doing the above to match cosmetcially is more challenging as it involves gelcoat and color matching.
There are other ways, i.e. pre-thickened glaze i.e. DuraGlass, but getting used to using resin will help you down the road for many repairs. For me, it started with fixing my surfboards – but from there I have done a lot of work – enough to save me a lot of $ in repairs.
I have never sprayed gelcoat but have sprayed a lot of awlgrip etc. I’m not sure oif the little disposal spray bottle they sell at West Marine will shoot geklcoat look into that… I have brushed gelcoat on and that is what I recommend.
Matching and Fairing gelcoat – I would get on youtube – find a vid on matching gelcoat ( there’s a really good one with a guy who has a multi series on various fiberglass repairs – he has a pony tail. He is thorough with his explanantions – although he makes it look easier than it is ). Here –> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yoURRmkD8MY
Personally, I would match gelcoat, prep area by degreasing – dewaxing with Interlux 202. Then sand, clean again. Gelcoat is pretty thick, but if it needs to be thicker to fight gravity, add some cabosil before you try to match color to thicken it. Once color is close – add hardener, and brush on ( check vid on YT – again he shows how to get it on right ). then let cure and fair.
I use gelcoat that has no wax in it in case I want to do mutli layers without sanding between – when I’m ready for final sanding, I spray with a chemical in a water bottle that allows it to harden. But, I recommend that you get it with wax/parafin – this way it’ll cure and be ready for sanding once cured.
Check that vid out – it’ll give you some great info…
You can sand it back with 120 to give it some grit, then botton paint it. If the glass is solid – it’ll be fine or, if it;s suspect looking, you can clean the area with interlux 202. Tape off area. Re-sand with 120 or so, clean again with 201. Buy a (2) part epoxy, like the West System, mix a small batch and paint it on with a throw away bristle brush. Let it cure and lightly sand, Bottom paint over it.
If it is a visible part that is not bottom painted – then you’re into matching and mixing gelcoat – matching is the tough part – it really takes time and practice.
Which sceanrio is yours ?
I think I like what I have then. It keeps the clutter to a minimum and it’s not that bad to adjust the job sheets. I agree the harken swivel above seems to be a weak link. Thx,though.
This is what I’m talking about. The jib sheet would go through the deck mounted cheek block and then through this. I would’nt like the cam on the trunk as it would be in the way all the time.
Click on image to zoom
Agreed, but sturdy and functional without adding something to the boom to hold it in place. I don’t have a cunningham, I don’t race – but have thought of adding something to allow me to hank the main down a bit to maximize shape.
Good luck.
Good for you ! That was easy ! I would either use a little resin mixed with cabosil ( consistency of mayonnaise ) or, if you’re not a fiberglass guy – ( you should learn it’s pretty easy ), I’d use MarineTex and put a weight on top of the repair that makes sure that the flange stays flush where it should be ( make sure the hose is not connected for this so there’s no added pressure on the copper tube. ) You don’t want this to pop up – ever. I’d certainly opt for Marine Tex before something like 5200. Be sure to clean all the attaching parts – sand and clean with acetone, then tape off areas so whatever medium you use doesn’t get where you dont want it.
Also, those old green water hoses are darn good as they don’t sag – if you can re-use them, I would.
What is getting clogged in there ? Bigger drains will allow bigger things to get clogged i.e. coins, shells, nuts/bolts. I almost never have the seat drain get clogged with anything and she sits on a mooring, on a saltwater Bay uncovered for 4 months.
Under the seat, are your brass tubes bent ? Are the hoses to the transom clear and,a smooth run ? Have you pulled the hoses off to assure that they are 100% clear ? If there is something that is slightly obstructing the hose or the brass ends – even the smallest debris can start to accumulate and clog. I’d pull the hoses off and run a snake through them. The same with the brass drains. I’d replace the hoses before I drilled bigger holes anywhere.
I have replaced all of these drains – and I can say, when they are in perfect working order – they work… If you want advice to enlarge them,I can advise you, but I don’t recommend it at all.
Can someone make a recommendation for an outhaul set-up ?
I’m not a racer – just a guy trying to get as much out of her as I can. I know there’s the internal and external set-ups. Is the internal that much better ?
I would do the internal/wire scenario, but I have a reef setup which dictates an extra block on my boom end casting so I’d have to do some cutting and adjustments on the boom end casting to make that work.
Or, I could just go with the external set-up.
Any opinions and if so, what exact blocks, purchase etc ( the exact spec ) would you recommend ? Or, is FS’s set-up a no-brainer and good enough ?
