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Interlux Brightside
Not meant to be under the water. Brushes on great – looks like it was sprayed. Prep well, tape off well and do a few coats… Sand lightly in between and use a tack cloth.
Sawyer – I like your idea and have done that on a shoreline while boat is in the water and rolled her on her side to do mast work etc.
With that method on land, how do you re-load the boat back onto the trailer ?
I am going to paint my bottom and have always rolled her back and used the trailer to hold the bow in conjunction with (2) boat stands to hold the aft steady…
If you could provide an EZ way to get the boat back on the trailer, I’d use your method…
Forget the trees.
I don’t think the stern rings are built for that weight. Neither is the bow eye.
If I couldn’t do this in water, my approach would be this:
Hook trailer to car/truck. Release winch strap. Tie the stern rings to a tree directly behind the boat with solid rope. Place a cinder block support under the stern – 6-8 cinder blocks ( even lift the boat up an inch or two to lift onto the blocks – use plywood to adjust height and to prevent an scraping hull )
Slowly ! Pull truck forward, letting the boat stay in place. Friends on either side of boat for stability. Get centerboard clear of trailer. So, now bow is sitting toward back of trailer, stern of boat is on blocks. Buds are holding boat steady. Jump on boat, slowly lower centerboard to ground. Disconnect cable or centerboard sheave. Pull centerboard up and out. It’s heavy and awkward ! Read that again. Have some heavy blankets or better, floatation seats ready to lay the CB on. Lay CB down.
Have buddy’s move to stern. While you back up SLOWLY, have them exert pressure to keep boat still or to push forward back onto trailer.
This is not ideal but it should work. Ideally, if you could borrow two boat stands for the aft, I’d do everything exactly the same as above. This is how I removed my boat from the trailer and onto boat stands. Worked great !
Good luck. Be smart. Be safe. If you are anxious or unsure about this – don’t do it.
All excellent comments. I’ve sailed my Scot in the Ocean on the ‘right’ days many times. More of a novelty for me than common practice. I usually sail in a large Bay that can get very choppy from time to time – sailing often in 15+ winds with 2-3′ short chop. I think the 2-3′ short chop can be worse than smooth ocean swells. Having a reef is critical for me either way.
WIth that being said, I would not own a Scot if I did only ocean sailing. One wrong move and you could be swamped, rolled etc. And, in a single handed scenario, in the Pacific – that’s not good. I’ve been caught in a fast, powerful squall in the Scot – it is not fun. In the ocean, that experience could be much much worse. Any boat can be sailed in the ocean, but not all boats should…
The reason I own a Scot is because I sail around very shallow water – and feel for it’s size, its the best all around centerboarder built. If you don’t have shallow water to ply around, and dont need to trailer – then by all means, go with a fixed keel boat. If I did only ocean sailing, I’d own a more stout boat with a fixed keel.
Most boats can be made more or less single handed. I do like the 23′ Pearson Ensign a lot. Boat with a pedigree and great sailing characteristics. Good luck… You’re doing the right thing by researching !Repectfully, SawyersPadre’s method is the best way to do this repair… I would fllow it to the ‘ T ‘. Good luck…
If this happened to me – I would pull all screws out. I would check the other screws for moisture. Personally, I’d over-drill all the screw holes with a wider drill bit. Place in a boiler room for the winter. Let it dry out completely !
In Spring, and after confriming all is dry ( hopefully the rudderhead wood is not ‘mush’ and it’s just the screw holes affected), use West System Epoxy with a syringe and inject holes to top. Before it cures, wipe top of epoxy so it lays flush with rudderhead. Let cure. Then use gudgeons as templates and drill proper sized drill bit for screws, dead center… Use Caulk Life and bed screws.
I would not leave rudderhead on all season. The contraction and expansion during the cold months are a recipe for any sealant to fail – and creating this exact problem.
If I were you, if boat’s chainplates are exposed – I’d pulll that false-security-of-a -SS-cover and re-bed the chainpalte and those pesky screws. Personally, I’d pull those screws out, over size drill, fill with epoxy flush and re-drill new holes !
ANYWHERE CORE IS, I HAVE DONE THIS ! Sounds like over-kill, but replace a floor or a deck from 10 years of a leaky screw and you’ll be a believer !
Other than water delaminating and ruining core – these boats can last – forever ?!
Good luck – hull 877…Quick question: When you say that you glues it, did you glue (2) narrow pcs to make the wide, 12 1/4″ stanchion ?Do you think that if a solid 12 1/4″ pc of wood was used, as opposed to (2) pcs glued, it would cup?
Yeah, I thought about that after I posted. A little extra work, but I like it !That’s what I’ll do ! Thanks.BTW – might have to hit one of you Sayville boys up for a lesson or two on flying a spinnaker – never did it !
Thx, All good words of wisdom. Thought about all your points. The factory sells it for $180 – not shipped. I might go that route, I just haven’t gone to my wood supplier yet. If I could buy wood for under $40-$50, I’ll do it myself – I have the varnish, screws, epoxy – etc. Unfortunatley, I have more time than $ ( it could be worse, I could have neither ! )I usually save buying things for stuff I cannot do or it’s a very specialty item.If you saw the resto project I just did, you would understand. One whole side of my boat was demolished against a pier in a squall – after having finished a complete resto a few years earlier ( heartbreak ! ). About 12′ long x 12″ on deck and 12″ on hull were basically gone. Looks new now.
Thx for reply. I thought it would be tough to add mechanical advantage here, but wasn’t sure.I sail in a Bay with very shallow areas; the beauty of crossing all channels, and sandbars is made possible by playing the centerboard and rudder blade.On ‘the other side of the coin’, I just had to glass back on 3″ of centerboard due to scraping over the sandy bottom over the years. Cannot figure what grit sandpaper that does this, but I figure about 2 grit – wet sanding to boot !Take care.
