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This may be too late but…
1- The gelcoat in your photos is the white that is cracked and chipping in some spots. Your boat’s hull was done in white gelcoat, the waterline stripe was painted on blue.
2- Yes that is what old gelcoat does especially so when applied thick.
3- Hard to say depends on what your use will be. Serious racing would need a lot of work. Daysailing not so much, maybe just enough to make it look good enough for your eye.Only 30 days until the Midwinters is on! Reminder; Feb. 15 is the cut off date for early registration discount.
Today’s weather; High 77, low 61, partly cloudy….
When you pasted the photos here they are formatted as links to another site (photobucket) not photo files that can just be opened. The html has [IMG} on both ends of the link, you can go back and edit those out and it should work as a link to your photos. If not anyone wanting to view them can just cut and paste the url into another window and they do open.
Regarding the repair, you might find this step by step fiberglass repair helpful, http://sailrace.blogspot.com/2010/05/hull-repair-part-2.html
The main point I would pass on is the patches should be glassed on both inside and outside. I would guess from your photos it has been glassed on just the inside.
This regatta usually averages 25 boats or so and with almost a month to go we already have 14 entries. Making hotel reservations early is advised since there is a festival in nearby Mt. Dora so rooms may be tougher to find. Camping is allowed if you want to go on the cheap!
Hope to see more Scot sailors from up north come in to sail with us.
Our fleet sails out of Davis Is. YC in Tampa, the club prohibits wire lifting bridals for hoist launching boats. When the swages fail they can do so with no warning.
Most of our fleet uses nylon straps (with reinforced stiching) or high strength line with spliced ends.
If you race a little while and vang properly the boom will develop a permanent bend. Sleeving is not legal and attempting to straighten it is not advised. The mainsails have a big enough shelf that some bend has no effect on sail shape.
There were some local scheduling conflicts that needed to be resolved. The best solution was to have the MW warm-up in Sarasota. DIYC will be hosting the final leg of the Florida District Championship, April 18 and 19, 2009. All out-of-State Scot sailors are welcome to join in.
The rings on the transom are there for mooring purposes, note the brackets use 4 bolts. They are also an easy and convenient way to attach the safety line.
The pop up cleats I have seen are heavy and expensive. They also require a large hole in the deck to mount them. I don’t think there is enough uncored area on the aft deck to mount them without penetrating the balsa core, so that would need to be carefully sealed to avoid rot.
One more reason against is that the transom is much stronger than the deck.
Go to http://www.sailrace.blogspot.com/ for photos and commentary on the Midwinters.
One of the first things I did on my Scot was change to tapered sheets. I used 1/8″ Amsteel and covered it with 1/4″ for the cockpit end. It works great and eliminates the light air / heavy air sheet decision.
One thing to consider is the 1/8″ portion reportedly does not hold well in the cam cleat mounted near the shrouds. I don’t have those cleats so have not experienced that personally but if you do you might consider that issue. The next set I make will be made from 1/4″Flightline.
In case we need an official challenge; The Florida District hereby challenges all Flying Scot Districts (especially the Carolina District) to compete for the coveted Wally Gator Trophy.
It is true we have lost Fred to college but we will do our best. Come on down and join the fun, the hotels are reasonable, the weather is usually good and Jacksonville is so far north its almost in the Carolina District.
We hope you’ll join us!
Dave Thinel
Florida District GovernorAgreed. I made my comments specifically regarding the great south bay on the south side of Long Island.
I sailed there quite a few times (not on a Scot) about 15 years ago. They get a healthy seabreeze of maybe 15 on average but 20 is not unusual from the SSW. I would guess the fetch is 4 to 5 miles from the south to north across the bay. In those winds the waves would be around 3 feet, fairly steep and close together, some breaking, some not.
This seems like it would be a very challenging place to sail a Scot especially at 300lbs. Getting caught by those waves in pinch mode would really slow the boat down. I think you would have to keep the jib powered up and work the main constantly to manage heal, boat speed would be my priority.
My wife and I face a similar challege, we weigh about 310 combined. We have pretty good speed in lighter air but when the breeze gets to 15 we start to slip back in the pack.
I think it is important to consider the waves when deciding how to sail in breeze. In flatter water it is ok to help manage heel by pinching a bit after easing the main to try to keep the boat on it feet. Once the waves get up pinching should be avoided, this is when you need to keep the boat driving fast. The best way to do this is hike, play the mainsheet constantly and move the jib leads back a bit to open the jib leach (along with the other controls mentioned). Snug rig may be better than loose in areas like the great South Bay where it is frequently breezy.
Having said that, there is no substitute for weight on the rail. It is really hard to hang with a boat that has 425 or 450 lb crews when the breeze is on. We feel we must make gains on the spinnaker runs to help make up what we lose on the beats. I hope to get better at this but it isn’t easy. Sailing with a third is not something we will be doing very often. Good luck.Greg is correct the photo shows 3 to 1 with a cascade for 6 to 1 total.
I think the way you rig it depends on if you race or not. If you race I would not use less than 6 to 1, this also depends on the stregth of the crew. I race and have the 6 to 1 set up that Harry offers, it works ok for my small wife. My old and now spare boom has 12 to 1 purchase (6 to 1 with a cascade for 12 to 1, completely internal) and for us this is a better set up. We still have to luff the main to pull more tension on in a breeze but at least she can do it. With the 6 to 1 I have to go forward and do it myself, in order to get enough tension. One of these days I will change the new boom to 12 to 1 as well.
With wind in high teens or above the outhaul needs to be VERY TIGHT to flatten the foot of the main when beating to weather.
