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  • in reply to: Handy step #12796
    JHS
    Participant

    It’s not, it was a homemade job. I am curious – when/why would stepping the mast be done when not hitched to a car? I only seem to step the mast when I am going to sail but I guess for general maintenance it might be done. My step keeps the boat pretty level so I guess if I ever have to step it while parked on the lawn, I’m all set.

    “If the sea did wild or wicked things, it was because she could not help them.” – Hemmingway

    in reply to: Boom vang, optional? #12793
    JHS
    Participant

    quote:[i]Originally posted by Richard Lewis[/i]
    [br]Personally, I wouldn’t recommend dispensing with the boom vang. It’s there for a purpose – to keep the boom from ‘skying’ and winds can change even if you start out in a light wind. The first year I had my Scot the vang came loose as I was coming into the dock (and had the boom sheet fairly far out) and the boom went up at a sharp angle and the boat heeled way over. Needless to say, I made sure the vang was more securely in place. BTW how did the vang hang up on the centerboard?

    R.Lewis
    FS367 Chin up

    Good advice and I won’t ignore it. To answer your question: With no vang attached the bridle just kind of rests on the centerboard track – the curved part that the rollers run on. The loop was aft of the rollers and when I lowered the board, the rollers came back and the bridle kind of snared it. (I hope that makes sense.)

    “If the sea did wild or wicked things, it was because she could not help them.” – Hemmingway

    in reply to: Trailering–Boom Storage #12792
    JHS
    Participant

    quote:[i]Originally posted by FS5257[/i]
    [br]Giving credit to Bob New in Merritt Island, his method has been adopted on my Scot.

    Simply insert the end of the boom (tackle and all) into the rear storage compartment and then lay the front of the boom into the centerboard drum cavity. Lines up perfectly and no damage.

    Sorry for sounding obtuse, but what do you mean by centerboard drum cavity? The space between it and the floor which would be on the starboard side? (Kind of where the photo is looking?) Also, when you say rear storage compartment, do you just mean the area under the rear deck (near the drain hole)? I am just envisioning that you put it on the starboard side of the centerboard trunk but something tells me that’s not what you mean.

    Thanks
    http://www.flyingscotracing.com/cgi-bin/i/new_scot_images/flying_scot_ce…
    “If the sea did wild or wicked things, it was because she could not help them.” – Hemmingway

    in reply to: Trailering–Boom Storage #12789
    JHS
    Participant

    The prior owner mounted a strategically notched 2×4 under the carpeted trailer support. The boom is lashed to this using two straps. The boom is then under the boat and nestled between the boat and the trailer wheel fender. It seems to be a very safe spot but a bit of a pain to put through and then attach the straps. For short rides to the lake I just throw it in the bilge on two cushions.

    “If the sea did wild or wicked things, it was because she could not help them.” – Hemmingway

    in reply to: Stern Cleats #12788
    JHS
    Participant

    Hey interesting. Do you think a pop up cleat would solve the occasional main sheet problem? Thanks.
    Thanks.

    “If the sea did wild or wicked things, it was because she could not help them.” – Hemmingway

    in reply to: Stern Cleats #12787
    JHS
    Participant

    quote:[i]Originally posted by Dave812[/i]
    [br]The rings on the transom are there for mooring purposes, note the brackets use 4 bolts. They are also an easy and convenient way to attach the safety line.

    The pop up cleats I have seen are heavy and expensive. They also require a large hole in the deck to mount them. I don’t think there is enough uncored area on the aft deck to mount them without penetrating the balsa core, so that would need to be carefully sealed to avoid rot.

    One more reason against is that the transom is much stronger than the deck.

    I’ve seen relatively lightweight pop up cleats but I think the other concerns mentioned dictate against them so the transom rings will have to do. Thanks.

    in reply to: soft bottom #12785
    JHS
    Participant

    quote:[i]Originally posted by briess[/i]
    [br]My 909 has had a soft bottom since I purchased 3 years ago. Recently I saw another scot with a soft bottom that the owner fixed by placing a 2×6 across the inside seating area width and screwed down to the centerboard trunk. Additionally he screwed from under the seats through the 2×6. He swears that it has made the bottom stiffer and prevented the centerboard from moving. Has anyone ever heard of this being done? He told me Flying Scot approved this and it is legal to sail in competition?

    Yeah, as a stop-gap fix it offers the needed stiffness that was lost due to the delamination that seems like a continuing problem with these boats. I think that a cause of it is partly due to improper trailering – too much pressure on the aft end of the cockpit. It seems that trailers should have a much broader support there rather than a carpeted 2×4. I think that a flat piece of wood – 2×8? 2×10? or even some plywood would be better. I read that according to the manufacturer, practically all the weight of the boat should rest on the keel and the runners in the trailer are just to keep it stable (and not bear load). I also think that a good way to avoid this unnecessary pressure would be to make sure the supports extend past the transom – meaning that the trailer be is just a bit longer than the boat itself so the aft weight is supported at the transom rather than in the cockpit area, IMHO.

    in reply to: Stern Cleats #12784
    JHS
    Participant

    That’s why I’d use pop up cleats – they’re somewhat flush when not in use…

    in reply to: Transom port specifications & DYI info #12782
    JHS
    Participant

    quote:[i]Originally posted by sawyerspadre[/i]
    [br]A 4″ round hole in the transom, which can be opened to let water out of a swamped Scot, by towing the boat with a special bridle.

    On the FSSA home page it will explain the new rules for transom port and bow flotation that go into effect in early 2009 for sanctioned events.

    The spirit is to make it easier to empty a boat that has been swamped after a capsize.

    Hey thanks. Funny, I was wondering exactly that after looking at photos of a swamped-boat drill on another site. Once you get it upright, you gotta get the water out. Makes sense.

    in reply to: Transom port specifications & DYI info #12780
    JHS
    Participant

    quote:[i]Originally posted by TomT[/i]
    [br]Does anyone have any specifications on the placement of the soon to be required transom port. I would like to know where to cut the hole. I have not seen any DYI instructions like I have seen for the required bow flotation bags.

    TomT

    Can I ask what’s a transom port?

    in reply to: Stern Cleats #12779
    JHS
    Participant

    Thanks. Interesting solution. The trailer loading is no problem, although the 1/2 jam cleat just aft of the sheet blocks seems nearly worthless. I climbed inside briefly but don’t recall if the balsa extends all the way to the gunwale (something tells me it’s about 2″ short of there). I would just feel better when it’s moored overnights if I could better secure the stern. I guess the safety harness loops on the transom would serve well.

Viewing 11 posts - 16 through 26 (of 26 total)
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