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Here is an open source alternative to the unsafe zoom webinar software:
https://www.wired.com/story/zoom-jitsi-offers-open-source-alternative-zoom/
Zoom Grapples With Security Flaws That Sour Users on App
The class measurer has a Delrin template for the class mandated foil shape of the Scot centerboard. The shape is NOT a NACA foil shape (not a teardrop) but a symmetrical fore to aft shape as required in the class rules.
This Delrin template is used to check board shapes each year at the measurement process before each competitors Scot is approved to race at the annual North American Championship regatta.
Each boat is hoisted and is suspended safely overhead on tall sawhorses. The board is lowered fully and the template is applied horizontally to each side of the board to see if any “daylight” is visible between the Delrin and the board surface. The trunk is checked to be sure any shims are attached to the trunk interior and not on the board itself.
Recommend contacting the class measurer for the correct centerboard shape.If memory serves, the Scot class rules only permit shimming of the Trunk, not the centerboard itself.
The standard tape lasts indefinitely when adhering to gel coat. As for how well it will stick with paint inbetween depends on how well applied the paint is.
In other words, the tape is not the issue as it will stick to whatever it is applied to for many years, possibly the life of the boat, never seen it unglue from gel coat on the 5 Scots over the years in this family. How well the paint adheres to the deck is the question. If the tape comes up, it will take paint with it.We are in Vermont as well. Highly recommend a Honda Pilot over the CRV for trailering as it has more robust brakes and a strong V-6. We towed as far as WI for the NAC with the Pilot as well as all over creation (Florida, NC, VA, QC) and it is up to doing Scot stopping duty. And it would be cheaper than a RX as well.
We sail on Memphamagogg in Quebec and Mascoma in NH.
As for published tow ratings, they are a guideline compiled by the lawyers and actual long distance road experience is more valuable than the ratings. While many light cars are rated to tow the weight of a Scot, to try to stop from highway speeds with a Scot behind will give one religion in a hurry when the too light brakes start to fade away In an emergency stop. It is not worth the risk to use an inadequate tow vehicle.With your new, fast sails, Set your mast rake to your sailmakers specification and go sailing To get the boat balanced so one is not dragging the rudder around because of weather helm.
Pull your main outhaul on very hard. Leave it there. Vang and Cunningham should be slack until over-powered.
Adjust your jib halyard tension to have just a hint of speed wrinkles at the jib hanks when the Main is trimmed in upwind.
Centerboard should be full down upwind. Always.
Scots are wide hulls with squat, low aspect ratio rigs that are not designed to point well. They are footing machines. The pointing comes later using speed from footing.
Don’t over-trim the jib and Keep the jib telltales flowing evenly unless overpowered in breeze. The leach of the jib should be visible in the upper main window and the top jib batten should be parallel with boats centerline. Crew should be able to ease/trim as puffs go/come As the batten angle will change with wind strength and need to be adjusted to stay parallel to centerline. Tiny jib sheet adjustments (1/8 to 1/4 inch) make a surprisingly big change in upper batten angle. This is critical to get right for upwind speed and pointing.
Hike hard to keep the boat flat and feather in the puffs to point. In light air, footing off is fast. Don’t try to jam it up.
In breeze, hike harder and drive it on the edge of the weather jib telltales, using as little rudder as possible. The rudder is a big barn door brake. Steer with the main sheet uncleated, easing a bit in the puffs and trimming a touch in the lulls, easing main a tad to drive off for speed, trimming it back to point up after speed is accomplished. This replaces rudder steering/braking with speed steering. Once balanced with almost no weather helm when trimmed in upwind, a Scot can be steered mostly using the mainsheet and heel angle by hiking.
If the main needs to be eased to keep the boat flat, pull on the vang as hard as you dare and hike harder to drive off for speed, then feather up to point. Pointing only works after all the speed items are dialed in.
Excellent commentary in these videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCXzrlaD6wA
Skip ahead to 4:15 for how to point a Scot in flat water: www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ad3XeNkp_2Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6dsGvpBSCc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TswC-04pwAw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkE4JO6xspY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iX64MgHzu0YOur 8 year old Scot with snug rig has no groove in the bow plate, as the toggle is 2-blocked and does not “saw” up & down in use. Majority of the tension is on the forestay side, forcing the toggle maximum up on the forestay side against the stops so it cannot move or make a groove in the bow plate
Since the jib tack side of the toggle is max down, This has the added racing advantage of lowering the tack of the jib as low as is legal by class rules. Lower is more efficient.Pulling is one aspect but much more important is stopping the whole rig.
Light cars have light brakes that are not up to a long haul on the Interstates, but might be ok around the parking lot for launching, etc. A Prius is not recommended towing on the highway.
We found that the Outback and Forester can barely stop a Scot at highway speeds and provide some pucker moments in the hills of I-81 towing to and from Deep Creek.
Recommend a heavier vehicle and we now tow with a Honda Pilot and Nissan Xterra.
Trailers make a difference too. The low-slung aluminum Trailex is easier to see over when looking aft than the taller galvanized trailers. It is also lighter weight to stop.
We have actually broached and nearly capsized the Scot in big breeze trying to haul the mainsheet in to jibe.
Best to go a bit by the lee to ease pressure, main nearly full out against the shroud, crew grabs the vang tackle and pulls hard, DUCK and let ‘er rip across. Skipper needs to steer to keep the hull under the rig and not deal with the mainsheet.
In lighter air, in order to keep the sheet from getting snagged on the rudder head, skipper grabs it ahead of the boom block to give it a flick only to remove excess slack.
Scot main is big and steers the boat when centered, which is opposite of what is needed in a jibe. Get it from old side to new side ASAP.
Since ideally both clews of the chute should be at the same height, the topping lift needs to be raised or lowered to keep the leeches parallel. And since the pole should be as level as possible the inboard end of the pole needs to be adjusted. Older Scots have a track on the mast and newer Scots have 2 rings.
In light air use the lower ring until the outboard end is adjusted higher than the inboard end, at which point switch to the upper ring as the wind increases.
