Broken Seat Drain Tube

I have a broken seat drain tube. Has anyone had any experience replacing one that they could share before I botch the job. I have just acquired hull #4313, built 1987. I have ordered replacement tubes. They seem just to be glassed in a wad of fiberglass below the seat. I can grind/cut that off. My concern is how to get the old tube out without damaging the seat surface where the flared end sits in the recess in the seat surface. Thanks for any advice.

Comments

I had the same poblem and fixed it with a plastic barbed fitting

I had the same poblem and fixed it with a plastic barbed fitting from a hardware store. It is just a short perhaps 3 inch straight palstic tube with tapered barbs on both ends. Push one end into the the remaining brass part and the other into your hose. At the end of the season I plan to replace the tubes. You can use a heat gun to soften the old epoxy that is hoding in the old tubes or just drill out the old tubes. Gabor, Scot 3512

On the chance that it will add to the body of knowledge on Scot

On the chance that it will add to the body of knowledge on Scot repairs here are my observations and the up shot of my experience replacing the seat drain. I like the elegance of Gabor's plastic tube fix. I also contemplated the heating idea, but was concerned about he gel coat on the seat. If there was a way to heat just the copper (like an electrical charge) that might work. I was concerned that the use of torches and drills was just too fraught with error in my hands. My main concern was to not damage the surface of the seat and the recess into which the flared end of the tube sits. I also thought perhaps I could cut the old copper tube down one side with a narrow cold chisel or old screw driver, fold it in on itself with needle nose pliers, extract it and then just slide in the new tube with some epoxy. Well, I couldn't. I did carfully catch the edge of the flair with a small screwdriver and with light tapping with a hammer gently bent the flair in to avoid damage to the seat or recess. I did manage to cut the side of the tube down about 1/2 inch at which point the fiberglass which was wound around the lower end of the tube broke off leaving about 3/4 of and inch of the glass wad in place. I simply cut off the dangling broken glass with the remains of the wrapped copper tube. Not a bad result as it turned out. It left a very clean surface and recess and left a clean hole through about 3/4 inch of the original glass wrapping in place under the seat to build upon later. I cleaned up the inside of the recess with an awl and the hole with a round rasp. I then masked the surface of the seat around the hole (VERY IMPORTANT) cutting the tape out with an Exact-o knife and inserted the new tube, leaving it up about 1 1/2 inches. I did not want to get epoxy on the bottom of the tube where it would be inserted into the hose later. I then used regular 5 minute epoxy and slathered it on the outside of the protruding tube under the flair and pushed it down into the recess and glass wad below. Once this set up it was probably sound enough just to have left that way. However, I then masked the bottom of copper tube, again, to keep it clean for the hose, wetted a couple of small strips of fiberglass cloth and re-wrapped the tube below the deck, re-building the original wad to support the lower end of the tube. Looks like OEM now. Hope this is useful.

Seat Drain Tubing Removal - Drill Method

My seat drain tubing also broke right below the seat at the end of the fiberglass reinforcement under the seat.  Since the copper tubing OD is 1/2", I elected drill out the stub end that remained in the seat using a 15/32" bit.  The flared end in the seat helped to center the bit in the hole.  After penetrating about 1" into the tubing stub, the stub broke free of its bond and came out when I withdrew the bit.

With the tubing stub removed, I chased the hole with a 1/2" bit to clean the surface in preparation for inserting the new tube that I cut and flared.  I cut masking tape as described above to protect the seat and inserted the new tube (4-1/2" long) coated with thickened 5-min epoxy making sure all surfaces were clean.

Glen Krapf (2101)

Call Harry

Harry Carpenter is the man to tell you how to fix this... Call FS Inc.

Phil Scheetz

FS 4086

Fleet 163, Nockamixon Sail Club