Antifouling Paint

Our boat has antifouling paint from the previous owner. We exclusively trailer the boat thus the antifouling paint really isn't needed. Now as the years pass more and more of the antifouling paint gets rubbed off and I'm wondering if that will cause problem. Should I be removing it? Do I need to put another gelcoat/paint/sealer on it? Or don't I need to worry about it and spend my time sailing the boat?
Claus FS5074 Ames, IA |

Comments

Claus, I have had the same antifouling paint on FS1342 for the l

Claus, I have had the same antifouling paint on FS1342 for the last 20 years. All I do is wet sand the bottom with 600 paper each year before Nationals or Districts and let the boat fly. Right now the bottom is 20% paint and 80% gelcoat. When sanding I go light on the bare surface with 800 paper and heavier on the blue SuperVinyllast paint. I think I have a very fast bottom. Jack F. Stewart ,FS1342, FS3532

I'm lost.

I'm lost. The antifouling paint on our boat is powdery and only below the waterline. I doubt much would be left if I would sand it. I think even now it isn't adequate to protect the boat if it where to be moored. To much has been rubbed off. So I don't get the yearly sanding over 20 years if no new antifouling paint is applied.
Claus FS5074 Ames, IA |

Claus: My boat came from salt water to fresh and had about five

Claus: My boat came from salt water to fresh and had about five coats of anti-fouling on the hull. It wasn't needed as I dry sailed the boat. I stripped and sanded the hull but needed to protect it and deal with the crazing. As usual, I didn't have much money. I sanded the crazing down and used a primer/filler and applied two coats of Brightside paint with a roller and brush (tipping). After three seasons of use I began to wet sail so needed to have anti-fouling applied. The guys at the yard had to sandblast the Brightside off because it was still so hard and adhereing so well. I don't think the paint is recommended below the waterline, but there it was. BoatUS had the paint on sale for about 15.00 to 20.00 bucks a quart. I think I used about three quarts.

If you just daysail, spend your time in the boat, not under it.

If you just daysail, spend your time in the boat, not under it. If you race, get the old paint off. There is no need for any paint or sealer. A coat of wax will make it easier to keep the hull clean and fast. I used a chemical stripper to remove the 20 year old bottom paint from my boat. Acetone and elbow grease works well to remove any areas of bottom paint the stripper leaves behind.

Don't use wax on the hull if you race.

Don't use wax on the hull if you race...it is very slow. Bare gelcoat is fastest [excepting illegal substances] And do not wax the deck of a Scot either, as crew will slip on it and either get injured or fall overboard. I'm not kidding...Scots only have a small amount of non-skid on the decks, and nothing but smooth gelcoat on the side decks, making it very easy to slip off. As for anti-fouling paint...unless it has been either properly sprayed on, or laboriously sanded smooth, it will be slower than smooth, bare gelcoat. For racing, a dry-sailed Scot with a smooth, bare bottom is fastest. For proof, see the condition of any top 10 boat at the Midwinters or NACs. Anybody using McLube?

I had the same problem when I bought my scot.

I had the same problem when I bought my scot. I was told by a local J24 guy that West Marine makes a AF paint remover. You might look into that and see if it is available before doing a ton of sanding. I removed the AF paint from the bottom of a Soling (27') and will NEVER do it again without chemical assistance! Brian