Gelcoat

I just got my boat from the shop where I had the hull regelcoated from the waterline to the rubrail. The difference is remarkable and the 46 year old fiberglass looks like new. In my case, the job cost 1500.00, and included removal and reinstallation of all hardware with 5200, adding an epoxy sealant to the hull, repainting the boot stripe and a little of the bottom paint, and waxing the finished product. I can recommend the guy who did the work to anyone in the Mpls., St. Paul area. He finished when he said he would and at the bid price.

Comments

I bet it looks great!I wanted to do that to my boat, but decided

I bet it looks great!I wanted to do that to my boat, but decided to diversify my funds and swabbed on Pre-Kote and Brightsides instead. Looks pretty good for now. Have you had to do any coring replacement to your boat? (I had to replace a 7' section stbd and I know the previous owner replaced the port side years ago). I haven't had her in the water yet since I picked her up last April. Almost there...but what I'm finding is that we tinkers seem to be never done. What's with that? Regards. [:)]

The factory says they recored the hull sometime during the 70's

The factory says they recored the hull sometime during the 70's, about 20 years after the boat was made. I re- bedding all of my hardware to keep water from seeping between the laminate layers so the decks are okay. I've had great results with Brightside and I'm planning to use it on the decks when I redo the nonskid surfaces. When I had the Brightside removed from the bottom the yard had to sandblast it off. Fortunately, I enjoy working on the boat as much I like sailing it so doing either is a good time for me. It helps that the Scot is well made so you're working with good engineering and construction to begin with.

When you recored the 7' section of your boat, how did you secure

When you recored the 7' section of your boat, how did you secure the hull while working? i am getting ready to recore an area about 1x3 feet in the port hull where delamination occurred, starting, I suspect, at the hole made for the boom crutch to rest. I am going to redo that by installing a small block for the boom crutch, I am concerned about inadvertently changing the hull shape on the side where I will work. Am going to put the hull on the ground to do the repair as not to stress the shape of the hull. Any suggestions? Thanks. Al Graham FS 3056

Alq, support the corners of the stern on blocks with wood betwee

Alq, support the corners of the stern on blocks with wood between the hull and blocks, and pull the trailer out and support the bow. I replaced all floor coring while supported like this. It's easy to glass a concave shape while sitting on the ground, but supported the hull assumes a natural shape and will stay so while the glass cures. Good luck, suck that gnarly mush out!