Anyone ever build a new, mahagony trunk / mast stanchion ?
Mine is OLD ! and cracked and needs to be replaced.
Anyone ' been there, done that ' ?
I replaced mine on 2101 about 2 years ago. Not a difficult job. I cut new stantions out of mahogany stock having the same thickness as the original. I used the original stantions as a template.
I had mine replaced at the factory. It was quite reasonable. I think the complete stanchion is under 200 dollars on the FS Inc website. Mine was weathered and would have needed a lot of sanding and coat after coat of new varnish. Since Harry had my boat, I think the replacement of the stanchion was only about an extra hour or labor. They did mine with the boat upside down. It makes it easier to fiberglass in the top, where it meets the deck. The bottom is bolted through the CB trunk keel that extends forward.
The new one looks really pretty, and at the price, buying mahogany, I am not sure I could had built it for less myself. If you factor in the time, it's easy to justify a new one. The old one is still hanging around my garage. I could sell it for $50 + shipping.
Fleet 163, Nockamixon Sail Club
Thx for replies. I'm either going to buy mahogany locally or buy it complete from FS.
I'd rather buy it locally, pull old one off as template as mentioned and varnish it.
Just was wondering of it was a tough thing to copy / manufacture.
How much, roughly for the mahagony lumber ?
For a DIY'er, varnish before assembly of mahagony or after ?
I would varnish after assembling, but before installing. I think at the factory the top inch or two on the outside is left unvarnished until after the fiberglass that holds it into the deck is done. You almost can't see that part, and the bare wood probably holds resin better.
If you will be making your own, I would think you would want to glue it and use stainless screws. I think the older boats had brass. The bolts at the bottom should be stainless.
What does good mahogany sell for in your market? I think Harry sells the stanchion for about $150 ready to go. I bought one and spent my waxing and varnishing time on the tiller and the bottom.
Keep in mind that if you build your own, you will want to support the deck, while you have old one out of the boat, and be very careful to get the right distance from deck to keel. If you end up too long or short, it will affect rig tension, shrouds etc.
All good words of wisdom. Thought about all your points.
The factory sells it for $180 - not shipped. I might go that route, I just haven't gone to my wood supplier yet. If I could buy wood for under $40-$50, I'll do it myself - I have the varnish, screws, epoxy - etc. Unfortunatley, I have more time than $ ( it could be worse, I could have neither ! )
I usually save buying things for stuff I cannot do or it's a very specialty item.
If you saw the resto project I just did, you would understand. One whole side of my boat was demolished against a pier in a squall - after having finished a complete resto a few years earlier ( heartbreak ! ). About 12' long x 12" on deck and 12" on hull were basically gone. Looks new now.
My boat is a 64 , I replaced all the wood ,center board cover stantion and jib block boards all for under 100 dollars including varnish . As said earlier use all old wood for templit , I bought all the wood at Menards and had to glue up ,to make the wider board ,you want to do this anyway to prevent cuping ,I used polyurethane glue for that.
When you say that you glues it, did you glue (2) narrow pcs to make the wide, 12 1/4" stanchion ?
Do you think that if a solid 12 1/4" pc of wood was used, as opposed to (2) pcs glued, it would cup?
The mahogany sides of my stanchion are solid, it appears, on both the old and the new. Neither appears to have a glue joint. I still have the old one around if anyone wants it.
When making furniture I always glue smaller pieces together to prevent cupping , so I treated this the same , up to 6-8 inch I would do solid ,but over that I would cut even if I had a 12 inch board in front of me. I used poly urethane glue since it is out side . If you match the grain so it looks the same , I would even have a hard time finding the seam on mine. The glue joint will be stronger then the wood it self . I can send you a picture of mine if you would like.
Would like to see it.
sent you an e-mail
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